The Perfect T-Shirt Round 1

I did my first tissue fitting in the wee hours of the morning. The good news is I needed the built-in round back and generous sizing. I'm especially excited because I think tapering to an XL gives me the hip room I need. I did a 1/2" square shoulder adjustment and added a CB seam.I started working on the sway back tuck when I heard the tissue rip, so I figured that was a good time for me to get some sleep.

The bad news is the armhole gaps horribly in the front. Since I did the tissue fitting in my undies, I don't have a picture for you.  However, It's about the same as in this KS3740 muslin:

According to FPA, the cause is the girls' size. The solve is a dart. This is the dart I refuse to add (I say that early in the fitting while my resistance is high.) I think the back armhole might be fine (it was the wee hours of the morning.) The pattern does come with instructions for how to "petite" the armhole. If I shorten the front, do I have to shorten the back? What do I do the the sleeve?

Also, I think I might need some sort of an FBA (again no pic to share). Hoping I can get that accomplished with one of three no-dart methods. Gotta remember to check the length of the shoulder too. I always felt like KS3740 was about 1/4" too long. I think Pamela's Patterns comes with a shorter seam.

Probably won't get to work on this tonight.  Going to the gym and then I'm coming back home to work on a meatloaf and mashed potatoes.

All I Want For Christmas/New Year's Resolutions

Yep. I'm thinking that far ahead.  I need to figure out two things -- a fitted T-shirt and pants. My life would be complete.

These are things I've always needed. I just feel more desperate now. The top is what I'm tackling first. I made another attempt at Kwik Sew 3740 a couple of weeks ago (I heart the cowl neck.)  It wasn't successful; I'm still trying to figure out my curves. My recent weight gain has exacerbated the issues:

• Full bust (I've been adamantly opposed to a bust dart)
• Relatively small waist
• Sway back
• Full hips
• High & round butt

I've decided to try another brand as the basis for a TNT pattern. Enter Pamela's Patterns Perfect T-Shirt and Sewaholic Renfrew Top.

 

I chose these because they have some fitting solves already built in. Sewaholic Patterns are designed for pear-shaped (I now prefer teardrop) women. From Pamela's patterns:

Commercial Patterns:	Pamela's Patterns:
Shoulder seam sits too far back	A forward shoulder is built into the pattern
Shoulder seam extends too far	Shoulder seam is smaller to give a more realistic fit
Back neckline is not high enough, causing shirts to "fall" back	A high round back is incorporated to keep the shirt where it should be
Armholes are too long, creating a pucker in the armhole area	The option to petite the shirt and armhole area to bring the armhole higher
Garment pulls across the bust due to a full bustline	Choose from two fronts - darted and undarted for a smooth finish no matter what your cup size!
Too much fabric in the waist area	Built -in "essence of waist"
Too tight though the hips	More generous in the hip area
Sizing never seems to be right	More realistic sizing

I'm starting with the Perfect T-Shirt. I'm excited not only because of the pattern, but I've found some great resources. I got these from Nancy's Notions.

                                             
Pamela's Patterns also has options for new necklines and sleeves. Londa has cowl options. I'm not above redrafting the beloved Kwik Sew collar to fit whichever pattern ends up working.
                     
God forbid I can't get either of the patterns to work. My third option is HotPatterns Plain and Simple Fitted T Redux (25% off this weekend). It has "a shaped center back and side seams for a feminine fit."

                                                        
To keep my sanity, I'm allowing myself take a break between each muslin (if I need it.) I figure an A-line dress with bust darts, center back and waist seams will keep any frustration brought on by the top at bay :-)

Alright, I'm going back to my tracing now. Reviewers mention the Perfect T-shirt runs big, so I'm tracing the un-darted medium and small at the same time. I should have the first muslin done Monday.

Wish me luck! 

Fear Itself

I think I may have overcome my fear of prints. I can't get these out of my head!

The first two are from Fabric Mart.
The Alexander Henry Fabrics Collection - "Basha"

Just insert you favorite sundress.


This one is so interesting.
Marc Jacobs Cotton  Large floral printed broadcloth

So, what would you do you with such a HUGE print? Seriously.

This one is from eBay.

Yep, another ginormous print. Would this work?


I fell in love with these pinks on the Fabric.com sale.

Botanica Deco Flowers Salmon

Botanica Blooms Garden White

Geometrics Retro Stars Pink (sold out)

Wouldn't they make cute skirts?


Still haven't been inspired to think about prints for tops, but miracles never cease.