There Is Hope

Long time no write or sew. However, there is hope!  I had finally given up on my dream of a fitted T-shirt without a bust dart.  Here's how it happened:  As I was walking into the office one day, I noticed the number of C+ women in T-shirts without bust darts and the fit of their shirts. It just wasn't cute. I guess I need a dart. It was a grim revelation.  (There's a 4" difference between my upper bust and bust, so who was I kidding?)

Then I discovered these!




Woo hoo! Bring on the French dart! Patterns have been purchased, fabric debated, but no tracing as of yet. My Thanksgiving was not as carefree as I'd planned, so I didn't get to start on one.

I also really, really want a cowl neck top.  When I found this one, I got really excited. The only bummer is it's sleeveless. I'm thinking about starting with it for a quick win. It's my first downloadable pattern!
                                            

But wait, there's more! I spied this tutorial on a PatternReview.com review the other day. I haven't had a chance to digest it yet.

Can't wait until my Christmas break!

The Perfect T-Shirt Round 2

I'm making progress. When tissue fitting my right side, here's what I came up with regarding the armhole:

• Back needs 1 1/4" removed
• Front needs 3 1/4" removed

I had a stroke of brilliance when I realized that because I needed at least 1 1/4" removed from the front and back, I could take an even horizontal tuck using the petite lines provided in the pattern. I know this may have been obvious to you seasoned stitchers, but at this stage I'm counting every victory.

After the tuck, the back armhole looked great. Bonus -- the armhole is no longer too low. I tried to dart the excess in the front, but the pins from the tuck had me thinking I probably shouldn't try to do both at once. So, I cut *gasp* and taped the tuck first. (Even though I trace my patterns, cutting makes me pause. It's so final.) I trued the seam line.

What has me scratching my head now is truing the armhole with the needed 2" dart pinned. It just doesn't look right on the tissue. Seems to fit okay. I'm using the small shoulder length minus almost 1/4"  

Wondering how to account for all of these alterations with the sleeve. Actually for the sleeve, I know I need to take the same 1 1/4" horizontal tuck I took in the front and back armhole, but I will also have compensate for the additional reshaping of the the front armhole and the new shoulder seam length, right? I'll guess cross that bridge when I come to it.

It's so helpful to figure things out step by step. Now that the beloved Red Bull Flutag has been cancelled :-( I can keep working through the afternoon. (But first I need a nap.)

I promise that when I get this right, I'm making one out of silk jersey and one out of wool jersey! Now, that just might be in 2013, but I'll still be ecstatic.

My next step is to trace the altered pattern onto Swedish tracing paper (I feel I've ripped the tissue one time too many.) I'll tissue fit the newly-traced pattern.  Just remembered I haven't added the 3" I need for my bubble butt. Uggh.  

Getting Ready for the Armhole

I've been fitting my left side (my right high hip throws me). I need a 1/2" dart in the back and a 7/8" dart in the front armhole. My right breast is a cup size larger than my left, so before I do anything official, I'll re-pin the tissue and check just the armhole on the right.

I've been searching the web for tutorials to fix the gaping.  Faye and Lynn left me great comments on the previous post. These links help me understand their suggestions.

• Fitting and Pattern Correction - Armhole
• To Get The Armhole Right, Fit the Bodice
• Sherril Miller