I posted this on Pattern Review as well. Help!! (Please)
There's been no sewing because I'm stuck again (and I spent last weekend making soups). How do you make a slightly round back adjustment when dealing with shoulder princess seams?
Instead of adding a dart as suggested in FFRP for my slightly round back, I adjusted the back shoulder princess seams to take in the excess fabric. Now I realize that the back seams won't match the front seams. Even if I added a real dart and left the seams alone, the front and back seams still wouldn't match would they?
2 comments:
Could you slash you pattern horizontally at the upper center back like putting the wedge in the center back crotch of pants?
I thought a 'high round back' adjustment was adding extra fabric into the back to allow for the roundedness of the back. I'm not sure what you mean by adding in a dart? If you were doing a traditional round back adjustment you would draw a line across the pattern pieces (at the approx rounded area where the armhole gapes) and then cut along that line and spread the pattern pieces the appropriate amount. There wouldn't be any change to the princess seams. FFRP pages 122-125
I've just had a look at the FFRP book and for the dart I think they mean, deepen it, if you already have a dart in the pattern piece. However you have princess seams so you will have to adjust a different way, like I mentioned above. Have a look on page 124 in FFRP where you can see the 2 slash lines across the back pattern. If you have shoulder princess seams then you would need to slash across both pattern pieces, pg 125, I'm not sure with the armhole, it would depend upon how high it went into the armhole and how low you took your round back adjustment. Hope that helps. :)
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