New Experiences

Well, I finally finished a project. Not quite a first, but it's been so long it feels new :-) Behold S2614! Please forgive Ruby's indecency. I don't want to flatten those cups by storing them. Besides, Ruby needs a little more heft all over to better match me. *sigh*

Anyhoo. Let's get to the review, shall we?

Pattern description

Misses' pullover top and bias skirt. Separate patterns included for A, B, C, D cup sizes. Threads Magazine Collection. I made the skirt, View A.

Pattern sizing

6-22. Let's just say I started with the 22 :-)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing?

Absolutely, except I added length.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Sure. I made the casing differently using this method. Although the instructions didn't call for it, I let the skirt hang before hemming in order to let the bias settle.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

No dislikes! This is a great starter pattern. 

Fabric used

Cotton/poly blend from Hancock. I've had it since 2005! Bemberg rayon from Mood for the lining. I starched the lining fabric before cutting.

Pattern alterations or any design changes?

Plenty! Where to begin? 

Alterations -- I made separate front and back pattern pieces for asymmetrical me.

• Added width to waist and hips. I think I'll decrease the back waist width 1" next time.
• Raised CB waist an inch. Thinking about lowering the CF waist an inch.
• Added 2 3/4" to CB hem
• I did High hip alt using the seam method. I should probably add more.

Design Changes

• Lengthened 5"
• Added a lining with hem lace! I can't help it -- I like linings. 

This project was my first ever lining! I used this tutorial to figure out how to add a linking to a skirt with an elastic waist. I used French seams for the side seams. (I didn't finish the side seams on the skirt since it's cut on the bias. Time will tell if this was wise.) Man, I ironed it, tried it on and then put it on Ruby for pics. I can see this garment will always require an iron.

I love the hem lace. It's a pretty, flirty touch to a rather utilitarian skirt. I figured I'd keep the color simple for this go round. When I got to the end, I realized I hadn't given any thought to what to do with the ends of the lace. I ended up overlapping them and joining them with a zigzag, the same way you join elastic. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it?

Absolutely to both!

Conclusion?

Although it took me forever (no fault of the pattern), this was a fun project. My inner gadget girl got her workout in because I used a gang of presser feet:

• standard foot
• 1/4" foot (French seams in lining)
• zipper foot (casing)
• narrow edge foot (hemming) 
• join and fold foot (attaching the hem lace) -- this was my first time using this foot. It was a little tricky with the slippery lining.

 

Almost ...

Yippie! I'm almost done with the world's longest A-line skirt project. Now I just have to wait for the bias to settle. It may or may not get hemmed soon.

No, it's not a high-low hemline. That's about what I need to make the back hemline even with the front, LOL! I love this little ribbon loop Carolyn put in the back of her skirt. Because of the added length in the back of my skirts, I don't need anything to tell back from front.

Now that I see the skirt hanging, I'm starting to understand the power of how different fabrics behave. The lining, my lovely Bemberg rayon from Mood, was cut 1 3/4" shorter than the cotton fashion fabric. The cotton is definitely heavier and has less drape. There seems to be less than 1 3/4" between the edges now. Maybe I shouldn't have steamed the skirt before hanging? Or, I stiffened the lining with starch before cutting. The last steaming seems to have removed the starch, could that be the cause?

Speaking of steam, see that diagonal streak going across the top of my skirt? My iron has taken to spitting more and more these days. *sigh*

Well, no time to rest. I want to get started on a maxi dress!

Almost forgot! So I am kinda new to the world of wovens and the required seam finishes. I did French seams on the lining, but the fashion fabric has 5/8" unfinished seams. They are unsightly only when I look at them :-) I've heard two theories: fabric cut on the bias doesn't fray. If you line, you don't always have to finish the seams of the fashion fabric because the lining protects them from wear. What say you?