Saturday, December 29, 2012

Craftsy is at it Again

First, let me say how much I love Crafty's Couture Dress. Of all the classes I've watched, this is the one that is teaching me how to sew. Even though this is probably an advanced class, the information is presented in such a way that even I get it. I'm using some Susan Khalje's techniques on my humble Burda 8269 skirt.

Anyhoo. There are two new Craftsy courses that I would love to take (as soon as the next awesome sale comes up.)

Sewing With Silks by Linda Lee 

I don't plan on making anything with silk soon, but I'm just eager to learn. I'm not a fan of the pattern included with the class, but clearly it's not a deal breaker. It does give me another reason to wait for a good sale.

I'm really excited about the fit class. Of the two classes this is definitely the higher priority. It comes with Vogue 8766, which was on my pattern wish list anyway.

Sew the Perfect Fit by Lynda Maynard










Well, break's over. Back to my skirt muslin. I'm copying the pattern markings now. Let's see if I can get it put together tonight.

Wednesday, December 26, 2012

Practice What You Preach *Learn* (Know)

Hope your Christmas was awesome! I've finished the pattern alts, tissue fitting and more pattern alts on Burda 8269. My tissue fitting was shocking. I'd spent all this time meticulously adjusting the pattern based on measurements I took so carefully. Why was the skirt still too tight? 

I'm in no way bold enough to say that I'd done all the width adjustments correctly. User error was probably a component, but I think the bigger issue is that I do width adjustments first and then length. Given that I have to add 3" at the center back, I should probably do that first. That way when I add width, I'm adding it to the right place!  

I know this! In Fitting and Pattern Alteration, the rules are simple: first make even changes in length, then uneven length, follow with even width and lastly uneven width adjustments. I know this by heart. Why didn't I put it into practice? I know exactly why. To me, it's the hardest of my alts. This is why I save it for last. 

I think there are two ways to do it, cut the pattern at the waist seam and add the length or use this method from Burda. To get this pdf and more helpful ones like it from old Burda World of Fashion magazines, join the Burda English Yahoo Group. 


Back to the tissue fitting. I have some 'interesting' contours. After adding the length, I still had to contend with the extra fabric at the waist. I tried to dart it out and I ended up with crooked darts. 


I've never seen crooked darts before, so I'm going to assume I need to fix this. I will just trace them straight when I do the first muslin (notice how I'm assuming multiples).  When I was looking for the Burda article above, I ran across the one below again. I'll give it a thorough read in a few hours.  I'm also going to check Sewing and Fitting with Darts.


I'll start the muslin in a few hours. More to come!

Tuesday, December 25, 2012

Merry Christmas!






Merry Christmas! Hope yours is a blessed one! I think my brother and I are getting older and wiser; yesterday, we both said seeing today would be a wonderful gift.

Santa did roll through with a few gifts this year. I won't bore you with the non-sewing ones. Most of these were inspired by Craftsy:

Waxed tracing paper!!!! Just in time for me to start the muslin for my Burda skirt.

Professional Tracing Paper Sheets | 26" x 39"   $9.50 The Couture Dress Craftsy

Clover fork pins. These little beauties are great for keeping intersecting seams and plaids from shifting as you sew. Can't wait to try them.


Japanese notions -- pins, needles and cotton basting thread. I figured the yellow would work well for most anything.  I'm going to use my scissors philosophy for my pins: hese new ones are not for tissue fitting. The tape I use on the Swedish tracing paper leaves a residue on pins and scissors, so my beloved pearlized pins will handle the tissue fitting only.




Last but not least -- a new topstitching foot. Woo hoo!