Love and Hate

I am on my fourth round of changes and third muslin for HP1133. As frustrating as it is to go through the fitting process, I enjoy this necessary evil. I like the detective work involved with diagnosing the issue and the finding a solution. I love making alterations to the paper pattern.

What I don't like is layout, cutting and especially marking. If I had a more sophisticated sewing space with a real cutting table, I MIGHT like it more.  I've done the best I can to outfit my dining table, but it still feels makeshift and uninspiring.  So much so that I will always take a nap before I cut fabric!  How sad is that? No matter how good the tea, Netflix or sewing videos, I can't charge right into cutting. If I'm working with a jersey, forget it. I think it's because no matter how hard I try to prevent it, one of the layers shifts during the process.

Once I get into my sewing room, life at the sewing machine is okay. I love choosing the right presser foot, but I'm not as proficient as I'd like to be at running the machine. I know I'll get better with time.

What I love, love, love is pressing! Other than hoarding fabric and patterns, it's the best part of sewing. I am such a geek about all of the tools. I get so excited when I watch the power of steam.

All of of this leads to euphoria until I try the muslin on and realize there's more work to do. Then it's time for a second nap!

Well,  I've procrastinated enough. Time to start cutting.

This is How You Do It!

This email popped up in my inbox earlier this week.

Get the Perfect Fit - Fashion For Every Size at Simplicity

It made me very happy, but it also reminded me of a source of great frustration. This is not a rant about the lack of plus size patterns. Since Carolyn put the industry on blast so eloquently, I feel no need to elaborate. (Insert plug here for Barbara Deckert's Plus Size Pattern Fitting & Design on Craftsy.)

This is a rant about website design and functionality. Simplicity.com makes it so easy to find patterns for me. The links for plus-size and patterns with multiple cup sizes are wonderful. I remember when McCall's started adding the bra icon to its patterns to denote multiple cup sizes.  How about a clickable link to all such patterns across Vogue, Butterick and McCall's?!

This is not rocket science, but marketing common sense. The powers that be figured out there was a market for patterns with multiple cup sizes, but make them hard to find. Vogue's patterns with multiple cup sizes (Custom Fit) are always in the Very Easy Vogue line. There isn't even a link to Very Easy Vogue when you first see site's main left-hand navigation, but it is a separate section in the printed catalog. On the site, you have to first select a category like dresses to get to to them. Then you have to look at each one of the patterns to figure out which are Custom Fit. Geez. Make it easier for me. What if I wanted to see all of the Custom Fit tops and dresses at once?

I'll end my rant by pleading for more patterns with multiple cup sizes. I heart Silhouette because the work is done for me. Palmer/Pletsch has great merit in teaching fit, but I honestly prefer being able to choose the correct cup size. Shout-out to In-House Patterns because they start with a D-cup and give you instructions to add or subtract as you see fit.

Merry Christmas!

Merry Christmas! Hope yours is a blessed one! I think my brother and I are getting older and wiser; yesterday, we both said seeing today would be a wonderful gift.

Santa did roll through with a few gifts this year. I won't bore you with the non-sewing ones. Most of these were inspired by Craftsy:

Waxed tracing paper!!!! Just in time for me to start the muslin for my Burda skirt.

Clover fork pins. These little beauties are great for keeping intersecting seams and plaids from shifting as you sew. Can't wait to try them.

Japanese notions -- pins, needles and cotton basting thread. I figured the yellow would work well for most anything.  I'm going to use my scissors philosophy for my pins: hese new ones are not for tissue fitting. The tape I use on the Swedish tracing paper leaves a residue on pins and scissors, so my beloved pearlized pins will handle the tissue fitting only.

Last but not least -- a new topstitching foot. Woo hoo!

Out With The Old & In With The New - Resolutions & McCall 6078

Happy New Year! I'm looking forward to great things this year. Let's start the year off right with a review, M6078. I thought it would be cute for Watch Night service. According to Pattern Review, this is one of the easiest tops in the world! Construction was easy, but fit is a challenge. It runs very large in the shoulders, but I need all the room I can get in my hips ;-)

I love the pattern and I'm going to work on it more today to tweak the fit. Funny how I started with four yards of fabric and it's still a work in progress. The fabric is a sparkle (maybe eyelash) sweater knit I scooped up at Hancock years ago. I originally purchased it for V7264. I'd kinda decided I didn't really like the fabric. In hindsight, I'd fallen out of love with the pattern. The fabric is beautiful and I want more.

Back to the pattern at hand. I started with a medium in the shoulders, but it was way too big. I scrapped that one and cut a small. The small is still giving me fits. I thought that because I traced every size from the armhole down, I would be able to just taper to the XL for the hips. I still don't fully understand why, but that doesn't work. When I cross the back pieces using the CB line for a small, I need more width on the side of the pieces that didn't have the multi sizing. I'm not above admitting 100% user error.

In the meantime, I'm going back to the medium I cut and adjust the shoulders. I'm also going to add bra strap holders via this tutorial. Does anyone know if you can buy these as sew-in kits? I searched online and I found disposable ones and gadgets that were not supposed to be sewn in. The one I have now will be great after I lose some weight! No worries. I was happy to have something remotely wearable! The new one will be even better, but not perfect. I plan to make one or two in a plain rayon knit and those will be just right right :-)

Pattern Description: Top A has front and back stitched pleats, front drape, lapped back and extended shoulder seams 


Pattern Sizing: XS-XL 


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly! 


Were the instructions easy to follow? Easy enough for even me.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the style of View A; it's figure flattering for me. It can be dressed up or down in both fabric and accessories. I've seen versions for a night on the town and some perfect for Saturday afternoon errands. I'd like to see how it would look under a jacket. It sews up quickly too. My dislike is the sizing. This would have been perfect except for the sizing. The shoulders are huge!


Fabric Used: Black sweater eyelash knit 


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I'm determined to keep tweaking the fit, so I'll start with XS at the shoulders and taper to XL at the hips. I also want to insert bra strap holders. 


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Because it's such a cute top, I'll have several of these before it's all over! It's a definite recommend.


Conclusion: 'Tis fabulous!

Since it is Jan 1, let me tell you about my sewing resolutions!

• Strengthen my sewing skills. I have too much fabric and too few clothes!
• Take a fitting class/workshop
• Complete 12 projects
• Become a more disciplined sewist
• Tissue fit
• Make muslins
• No UFOs!
• Be more organized (neater) as I sew
• Stop sewing over pins (I think I've learned my lesson)
• Be more patient
• And the biggie: STOP HOARDING FABRIC
• I will only buy fabric for what I'm currently making; not for what I'm planning to make.
• I will stop choosing fabric over food ;-)

I started going through fabric withdrawal yesterday! As I get ready to head downtown, I'm talking myself in and out of a trip to Vogue. I need to go to New Rainbow Fabric, which is across the street, for a silk organza press cloth. How can I not go to Vogue when they have this?

I think it will be the perfect replacement for the fabric I'm using now. It's brown, but I love the eyelashes. If I work on it now, I'm not breaking my resolution and I could have a snazzy version that fits now .... Problem solved! The stores are closed anyway for the holiday.

Happy New Year!

How the Grinch Stole Christmas or $21 & Some Change

UPDATE:  Uggh!!!!! Would you believe after all that, the salesperson forgot to put the patterns in my bag?? I just called and they are still at the counter.



Hancock Fabrics, I have tried to love you. I put up with having to go to multiple locations to get my patterns because each store apparently gets only four of each in stock when the new ones come out. I make a little game out of it and think of it as the Great Pattern Hunt. I do this even when I know Jo-Ann is always well stocked and will honor your sales flier. I choose you for my Ponteroma knit, even though I could get it at Jo-Ann too (and they also have beautiful rayon knit jerseys, ITY and rib knits a you don't even bother to carry).

I like your value fabric, but don't you want to be more than that to me? Besides, Fabric.com and Fabric Mart have claimed more of my heart and wallet.  You're lucky that Discount Textile Warehouse is so inconvenient ... Let's not forget about Vogue and New Rainbow Fabric.

My point is I have options. I choose you even when I know I'll have to go to another store to get something else for the same project. That's what love does.

I've wanted your Kashmir Fleece for months. (It's a good thing I can see the colors online because no store seems to have the complete collection.)  It's $20/yard, which is why I've admired it from afar. How happy was I because it's 50% off until Christmas Eve?  And, thank you Jesus, I got a 20% off entire purchase coupon from Jo-Ann (includes sale and regular items). It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas...

I went through every coat and jacket pattern trying to find the right one for this fleece. I settled on New Look 6006 in either plum or rust. I couldn't wait to get to the store last night. I looked at every possible fabric that would make a cool lining for either color. Finally, I found it in the Kaleidoscope collection.



This was a big purchase for me; it takes a lot for me to pay more than $5/yd. I just don't have the sewing skills or money right now to roll with anything more.  But it's Christmas and I'm playing low-budget Santa for myself.  *Deep breath* Okay, since I'm here, let me get my other splurge fabric, stretch velvet, for Butterick 5562 View D. It was $9.09/yd.  Whew. I have a 20% coupon, so I better make it count, right? I looked at all the sale fabric to make sure I didn't miss anything. *Deep breath*  Let me get to the cutting counter before I lose heart.

To the register we go. With some regular fleece, patterns and thread thrown in, the subtotal is $108 something. (Let me point out that the Simplicity patterns were $2 each; I usually wait until they are 5 for $1.) $108? Am I crazy? Is this really how I want to spend my money -- on something I won't sew for a year? For real, I need a cake pan now and it's only $34. I could be using this money for gas ... BUT, it's my one gift to me this Christmas and I really, really, really like it. Deals like this don't come around that often. I'm so glad I have a 20%-off-entire-purchase coupon.

The sales person told me I qualified for $25 off my next purchase. I told her I had a 20% off coupon. The other salesperson overheard and said that I couldn't combine discounts. All I want is my coupon. The first lady tried to key it in and couldn't. She was new and thought that scanning it would work. Bless her heart. The other lady came over and tried. The register was only discounting one non-sale item, thread. I ask if they can enter flat dollar-off discounts. She says no.

She apologies for the wait. She picks up the phone and starts to franticly call store managers (There are now four impatient people behind me; I am chillin'.) She gets someone on the third try. "We aren't honoring the Jo-Ann 20%-off-the-entire-purchase coupon are we?"  Well, I guess not when you phrase it like that. This is also one of the locations that refused to allow me to use Jo-Ann's coupon's on patterns even before Jo-Ann changed the language on the coupons to exclude patterns.

I very calmly said, "You have made this very easy for me. Please cancel the transaction. I'll take the $3.99 fleece, patterns and a spool of thread. Here's another coupon for the thread." My new subtotal is $20.62. Here's what I left behind:

Unseen on the counter are also pieces of my heart and customer loyalty. See, I don't think you understood what you were up against. I chose fabric over a much-needed and long-awaited trip to the Norstrom make up counter. I chose you over EA Sports Active 2. I chose you over DVDs of movies I absolutely adore like North & South and the re-mastered Pride & Prejudice. I was willing to take public transit a little bit more and eat a little less fancy for this one last fabric splurge.

Oh, you didn't know this was going to be last you see of me for awhile? One of my New Year's resolutions is to stop "collecting" fabric. I will only buy fabric if it's needed for a project I'm actually working on. Given how long it takes me to complete anything and the stash I already have, it will be a long time before you see me browsing again. I wanted my last purchase to count, kinda like the last meal you eat before starting a diet. Oh well.

Feeling better ...

I've been a wee bit frustrated lately, especially this morning. I took a break from the skirt to work on a quick top to wear with it. Kwik Sew 3740 has been an UFO for quite a while.

I'd completed a high round back alteration, knocked out a sway back dart and an FBA. I still had this gigantic wrinkle going diagonally across the back from the armhole. I added tissue to the side seams at the hip and that went away. (Happy happy joy joy!)

I thought I was ready to work on my forward shoulder adjustment and then it would be all good. Depending on how I pull and tug at this muslin (and the previous ones), there is excess tissue underneath my shoulder blade. The tissue gapes and falls away from my back. Patricia over at Perfect Sew & Fit looked at another muslin and thought it was because of a rounded back (hence the high round back adjustment).

When I did the forward shoulder adjustment (almost 3/4"), all hell broke loose! New wrinkles. New tightness! A gap at the back armhole. Grrrr! I was beyond frustrated. Woe is me. I'll never get this right. Why is my body so deformed??!

Then, I decided to just "make it work." I unpinned my forward shoulder adjustment and used the original stitching lines. I pinched out the excess fabric and the top fit much better. However the neckine was nowhere near my neck. When I thought about it, it made sense. This dart took out almost an inch and even more of was taken out for the sway back. All I'd have to do is figure out how to add the length in the right place. I consulted Fitting & Pattern Alteration. Looks like there's an alteration for a high neck base. I'll also have to go back and make the proper adjustment for the upper back instead of using that dart. I think it's the alteration for short shoulder blades.

I left home for work frustrated and regretting that I didn't have a completed muslin. Later in the morning, it dawned on me that I learned something new and I was well on my way to fixing the next problem. What an accomplishment for the morning! I feel better now:-)

Checking In

Like most, I have to go back to work tomorrow.  So far, I've got three new projects traced and cut out:  KS2856, M6078 (not looking forward to the swayback adjustment for this) and M6076 (September sew-along). I'm making my alterations to Burda 8269. This has worked my last nerve, so I'm taking a break to write.

As usual, mo to do list was too long and my love of sleep and ability to waste time on the computer too great.  I wanted to knock out the alterations for the new projects, complete this skirt and finish KS3740, which has been hanging around forever.  I have some things in the alterations/mending pile I wanted to get to as well, including a friend's jeans.

I'm proud to say that I've completed the following. None of them aided a project, but I feel better because they're done:

• Hung all of the WIP. Thanks to Ann's tip, I can see my couch and dining table again!
• Created an index for the last Sew Stylish and Threads (Yep. I'm that anal. How else can you find the article you're looking for?)
• Wrote a couple of notions reviews for Amazon.com
• Picked up a couple pieces of very cute and very cheap ($1.99/yd & $2.99/yd) fabric and waxed tailor's chalk at Vogue. I used the tailor's chalk today and I love it.

I got this one from Vogue earlier this year. It was in the cute cottons stack, so I'd thought I'd show you. $3.99/yd!

• Grabbed a few new patterns

Here's what I'm ashamed about: I went through my catalog on Pattern Review.com and made sure each had a picture and the picture I wanted. This has been a small but growing pet peeve with me. When I buy fabric, I browse the catalog to figure out what I'm going to make with it. If there's no picture, I skip the pattern. If the picture is one view of four options, I might skip over the pattern because I don't like the particular view. However, I might have chosen the pattern if I could see all of the views.  This is especially true with the wardrobes.

Alright, I'll calm enough now to go back to the skirt.  I'm having the hardest time with is adjusting for my small waist and large (okay huge) front thighs. So far, I've added two extra darts, let a side seam out twice and adjusted the seam that goes across my right thigh.

Here's how I had to change the front right side seam (high hip).  The red line is the original stitching line.

Here's the top of the thigh seam.  I took it apart and pulled until the wrinkles went away. Left seam allowance:

Right seam allowance:

The pink and green highlighter marks show that I'm still working on the swayback adjustment.

I'm fixing (yes, I'm Southern) to work on both side seams and tweak that thigh seam. I'm praying that when I try it on again, I can sit down more comfortable and the wrinkle pointing to my left thigh is gone! The good news is that the side seams are straight.

Still Fighting

I re-traced the top I'm working on.  I'm struggling with the sway back adjustment. The great news is I have a sewing angel who is providing great tips as I muddle my way through this.  She prodded me to me to check my measurements because perhaps I needed more length in the CF.  I've taken enough measurements to adjust the top.  I decided that I may as well keep going, so I'll knock out my hips and crotch curve next. Pray for me.

The Battle Continues

The quest for clothes that fit continues!  I'm tackling my first sway back alteration in a top.  Rather than doing the wedge and tapering to the side seam, I decided to try this method.  If you use this one, you don't have to worry about straightening the hem and fixing the grain line. 

I'm working on my second Kwik Sew 3740 muslin.  The first one I put aside when I realized I'd cut the collar and the top of the bodice too large. I decided to make things easy and simple and just start over; I'd already done an FBA and I didn't want to get confused.

This is definitely an iterative process.  No pics until I get the pattern adjusted properly. I started with taking out 7/8".  For this next round, I think I used the right waistline marking on the pattern and I've taken out 1 1/2".  I can't wait to get into my cowl neck ponteroma knit top!

On a separate note, I thought I'd be getting my new sewing machine this weekend.  Looks like I'll be putting that off for another month.  I decided to stop working on Kwik Sew 3221 until I have more technology to help me with the slippery sheer I am using. Also, I was a little disappointed after I tried it on. I thought it would look great with this top; I didn't like the way it looked over the long sleeves. 

It was completely God's grace that got the design centered! I gave that absolutely no thought when laying out the pattern.  I've realized that not only did I have problems sewing the fabric, but I butchered it while cutting too.  If you see this value fabric at Hancock, please give me a shout! I need two yards.

Read This!!!

Gertie interviewed Carolyn about sewing for a plus-sized woman.  As you know, I'm new to the sewing community, so I found this very enlightening.  BTW, if you're not folloing both blogs, you're missing out. Enjoi.

Thoughts on Plus Size Sewing from a Fellow Blogger

What I Learned Today

So I'd really be close to done with this shirt had I not ran out of thread. Lesson learned? Don't use real thread for basting stitches. What makes it so bad is that I was in two fabric stores today! Good news is that I like the fit. Redid some of the top stitching on the neckband.

A Little Frustrated & Disappointed

I took another look at the calendar and what I was proposing for my knit wardrobe. With the exception of the Hot Patterns dress, I thought I could get it all done by March. While I was home for work on Thursday, I worked hard on the muslin for Kwik Sew 3740.


I did a better job on the no-dart FBA. I noticed that on my last top, there seemed to be too much fabric on the side of the bust toward the armholes. I also thought the neckline was a bit big. On Friday morning it hit me. I am a 12 in the big 4 and an 8 in Kwik Sew! Of course this muslin and the previous top were too big in places. That was my disappointment. No worries, the muslin was still pretty. I would still finish it and give it to someone later. I would spend this weekend making a new muslin and perhaps finishing the top.

My frustration is that while I was home on Thursday, I noticed advertising on my Vox blogs. When I joined Vox, I distinctly remember reading that after so many months on Vox, the user could request to join their ad program and share in any revenue. From the way the doc was worded, I took away that there would be no advertising prior to the probation period and the user had to opt-in for any ads to appear. I was pissed when I saw ads on both of my blogs.

I tried to put it out of my mind because I needed to work on the shirt. By Saturday morning, I decided there was no way in hell I was going to allow Vox to financially benefit from any traffic I drove to its network. It really was the straw that broke the camel's back. Seeds had been planted last month when I realized tracking site traffic was nearly impossible and a couple of weeks ago when I learned you had to be a member of Vox to comment on posts. I had to go.

I spent all day yesterday moving each of the 22 posts, one at a time to Blogger. (Further confirmation that I was doing the right thing came when I had to search the Web to figure out how to export my blog. There is no export function in Vox!!) It's really like they want to hold your content hostage.

Thankfully, when you delete a blog on Blogger it saves the file and you can restore your blog. That's such a blessing -- I've been food blogging since 2007 and I started on Blogger. All I had to do was recreate the posts from September 2009 through now that were created on Vox. I completed most of the posts. My food posts are so picture intense that in the interest of time, I have a few of the posts in Blogger with words only (no pics or working links). I'll get to them later.

Last but not least, I have to adjust the dress form.  Again. Ruby has a 36" bust and she needs a 34.  I love Ruby. I'm glad I have her, but I dread having to do this because getting things right with her cover ain't easy.

So, it's aftert 5:30 and I haven't done a thing this weekend to move anything forward in the wardrobe. Now, I'm going to try to straighten up the house, look at the Christmas decorations that need to come down and get ready for work tomorrow.

*sigh*

On the bright side, One of the replacement patterns for M5241 arrived this week. McCall's patterns will be on sale starting Thursday at Hancock.  I'll be able to buy more fabric for the wardrobe (I live for those coupons.)  And, I'm a little over a month away from my new sewing machine. (I'm trying to see more of the positive side in every situation.)

What Had Happened Was

Usually when you hear that, whatever immediately follows is bound to be some foolishness. This is no exception. I went into Hancock again today to purchase the last of the knit fabric for the wardrobe I'm planning. Just needed 2 1/2 yards for some pants. As luck would have it, there was a cut in the last of the chocolate brown ponteroma knit. Darn.

As I perused the fashion fabrics at this location, I spotted this:

$2.95/yd plus a 50% off coupon! I have no idea what kind of fabric this is, but I was sold at "machine wash cold, tumble dry low." I took what was left on the bolt, a little over three yards. I wish there had been more so I could have copied the first lady's sheath dress and matching coat look. Oh well. I still see a sheath in the distant future, perhaps Vogue 8555, View A. Look at how pretty Cenetta's is.

As for the wardrobe, I still need that knit and some corduroy. I'll be waiting on the knit until the next batch of 50% off coupons rolls around.

I Couldn't Help Myself

My name is Carla and I am addicted to fabric. Okay, patterns too. I had a great system going -- don't buy more than can fit in the bins I already own. Oh, how I have walked away from that. Two things haunt me -- I can't pass up a good deal (thanks, Vogue Fabrics) and I keep re-envisioning what I need in my wardrobe. I have finally mapped out a wardrobe that will have some mix and match pieces, so that should help. All I need is the last of the fabric! LOL

Anyhoo, so I was working this wardrobe plan when I needed some cheering up. I decided to take a stroll through Hancock Fabrics. This is monumental because a fabric store has now replaced Target and Williams-Sonoma as my happy store. The fact that the value fabrics are different at each location encourages my bad behavoir.

Look at what I found!

The plaid is a poly taffeta (I think). When I spotted the plaid (I'm attracted to most things shiny) I immediately thought holiday, but it's a bit loud to be covered in it from head to toe. Enter green poly dull satin. The green makes it more Christmas-y. Would you believe the plaid was $4.95/yd and I had a 50% off coupon? Score! The satin was 30% off.

Decisions. Decisions. After I finish KS3338 this weekend (prayerfully), do I start the wardrobe or play with this in hopes of something new and cute for Christmas or New Year's Eve service? It's been years since I had a Christmas outfit (childhood flashback).

I Heart Christmas

This has absolutely nothing to do with sewing. I just wanted to share my holiday decorations with everyone. See everything here.

She's Here! She's Here!

Ruby is here, but I'm not. She has been delivered to my office. Unfortunately, I'm out of the office for a few days :-( Could I be lucky enough to get sloper patterns, form and cover all this week?


I'm so excited!

The Stars Are Aligning (My Pocketbook Isn't)

Wouldn't cha know it? This morning Club BMV has a buy-1-get-2-free pattern sale. My fitting shells are on the way! I say shells because I ordered three. Did I need three? Who knows? By bust is a 12, waist 18 and hips 24. Seriously. The largest size they had was a 22, so I know I'll have to add something to the hips.


Anyhoo. Perhaps God is tired of me sweating this fit issue; He's making it easier to get the tools and things I need. Or, this is yet another test of financial willpower and I'm failing miserably. Subsequently, this will be the most low-key Thanksgiving I've ever had. I guess that's okay because I will probably hate to tear myself away from the sewing machine to cook. (This has happened many a Saturday.) Oh well, it's the choice I made.

Why I Sew

My curse has been (prior to gaining weight) to never be able to buy pants and skirts that don’t require alterations — take in the waist (a lot) and let out the hem. What’s frustrating is that no matter if I spend good money on a pair of pants or find some on the cheap, they always have to be altered.


My solution? Make my own pants. What really pushed me over the top was finding that my beloved Right Fit Blue pants at Lane Bryant would no longer fit me. The smallest size is too big. I’m happy to have lost some weight, but I must admit I did enjoy being able to try on pants that actually fit.

Oh well. Life goes on and I have more weight to lose. Rather than go through the hated ritual again, I’m willing to give up my Saturdays and Sunday afternoons in the name of garment construction. Once I decided I was making pants, dresses, tops, skirts and everything else was fair game. (You just can’t start with pants; you have to work your way up to them.) Whereas I used to lose my mind in Nordstrom and later Williams-Sonoma, my heart now lies in fabric stores.

My mother rocked as a sewist. She was amazingly good. I think all of her sisters were, back in the day, at home behind a sewing machine too. My turn. Of course I’m the only one in the family to pick up the torch. (This is what happens when you get rid of home ec in school.) No worries, I’ve always had a domestic bent.

Well, here we go …