Fabric Joy

I can't kick the fabric-buying drug. I gotta have it. I can sorta control it by supposedly buying what I need for a specific project, but who knows when I'll get to the project? Anyhoo. One shouldn't be too hard on oneself :-)

Seriously -- once the skirt bug kicked in, I realized the flaw in my stash. Either my pieces are too large or too small. I want full, A-line skirts that fall past the knee; I have an unhealthy crush on circle skirts. I need 2.5-4.5 yds to make this work. I can't bear to cut into a 5.5 yd piece of fabric if I only need 4.5 yds. I would rather buy more fabric! (I know this is completely ridiculous and a recipe for foolishness.)

Enter Robert Kaufman Ultra Cotton Sateen and Mary Jo's. I am now the proud owner of Forest and Black. Forest is destined for a dress. Y'all know I really want the chocolate now.

Then there's Fabric Mart. I got the last of this black silk/cotton Oxford shirting:

I made a couple of first purchases. Fashion Fabrics Club had basic sateen colors. I love the one on the left. I absolutely hate the one on the right. I will think twice before purchasing from them again. It is really heavy. Way too heavy for an A-line skirt. All sites should give you the fabric's weight. 

                

I got this lightweight embroidered cotton too.

I made my first purchase from Mood! Based on Project Runway and what the folks on its blogger network are doing, I thought Mood wasn't for sewing lightweights like me. I know where to go if I ever want silk 4-ply crepe, but I'm glad to say there's something for my skill level -- and that people is Bemberg lining at $6/yd! Oh happy day!

Last but not least are Jo-Ann and Hancock. From Jo-Ann there's this linen and poly charmeuse.

Poor Hancock. You're just not the same anymore. I do thank you for these two great finds. The lawn ?? on the left was $.40/yd! The stretch cotton pique was around $5. Now I'm on the hunt for stretch linings.  All except one of the older sateen fabrics in my stash has stretch.

May was a good stash month!

It was the Best of Times, it was the Worst of Times

Another Hancock Fabrics is going out of business. This is the second one and third closed fabric store in the Chi in four years. I was so ready to move to Mississippi and work at Hancock's headquarters. I wanted to get my hands in its marketing.

Anyhoo. It was with a bittersweet zeal that I went through my pattern wishlist. $4 Vogue; $1 McCall's, Butterick, Kwik Sew; $2 Simplicity, Burda and New Look were mine for the picking.

The latest Simplicity and New Look patterns were there. 

I even snagged a couple of elusive Spring McCall's

Ran across some previously undiscovered gems.

My only fabric purchase was the beautiful floral batik at $2/yd. Practically every fashion fabric bolt in the store was in someone's cart.

Most of the thread was gone, but I was able to find hem tape and lace for 70% off. None in the green I need as I think ahead to Easter. (I am such a dreamer!)

My haul was so fabulous that I feel bad about going to Jo-Ann's later today. I've been commissioned to deliver a cookie tin on Tuesday, so I need some Wilton supplies and a decorative tin. 

I have a four-day weekend. Tuesday is cookie day. Running errands today while it's in the balmy 40s. Gotta get in some cleaning and tomorrow is church. Monday is my sewing day!

Out With The Old & In With The New - Resolutions & McCall 6078

Happy New Year! I'm looking forward to great things this year. Let's start the year off right with a review, M6078. I thought it would be cute for Watch Night service. According to Pattern Review, this is one of the easiest tops in the world! Construction was easy, but fit is a challenge. It runs very large in the shoulders, but I need all the room I can get in my hips ;-)

I love the pattern and I'm going to work on it more today to tweak the fit. Funny how I started with four yards of fabric and it's still a work in progress. The fabric is a sparkle (maybe eyelash) sweater knit I scooped up at Hancock years ago. I originally purchased it for V7264. I'd kinda decided I didn't really like the fabric. In hindsight, I'd fallen out of love with the pattern. The fabric is beautiful and I want more.

Back to the pattern at hand. I started with a medium in the shoulders, but it was way too big. I scrapped that one and cut a small. The small is still giving me fits. I thought that because I traced every size from the armhole down, I would be able to just taper to the XL for the hips. I still don't fully understand why, but that doesn't work. When I cross the back pieces using the CB line for a small, I need more width on the side of the pieces that didn't have the multi sizing. I'm not above admitting 100% user error.

In the meantime, I'm going back to the medium I cut and adjust the shoulders. I'm also going to add bra strap holders via this tutorial. Does anyone know if you can buy these as sew-in kits? I searched online and I found disposable ones and gadgets that were not supposed to be sewn in. The one I have now will be great after I lose some weight! No worries. I was happy to have something remotely wearable! The new one will be even better, but not perfect. I plan to make one or two in a plain rayon knit and those will be just right right :-)

Pattern Description: Top A has front and back stitched pleats, front drape, lapped back and extended shoulder seams 


Pattern Sizing: XS-XL 


Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Exactly! 


Were the instructions easy to follow? Easy enough for even me.


What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern? I love the style of View A; it's figure flattering for me. It can be dressed up or down in both fabric and accessories. I've seen versions for a night on the town and some perfect for Saturday afternoon errands. I'd like to see how it would look under a jacket. It sews up quickly too. My dislike is the sizing. This would have been perfect except for the sizing. The shoulders are huge!


Fabric Used: Black sweater eyelash knit 


Pattern alterations or any design changes you made: I'm determined to keep tweaking the fit, so I'll start with XS at the shoulders and taper to XL at the hips. I also want to insert bra strap holders. 


Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others? Because it's such a cute top, I'll have several of these before it's all over! It's a definite recommend.


Conclusion: 'Tis fabulous!

Since it is Jan 1, let me tell you about my sewing resolutions!

• Strengthen my sewing skills. I have too much fabric and too few clothes!
• Take a fitting class/workshop
• Complete 12 projects
• Become a more disciplined sewist
• Tissue fit
• Make muslins
• No UFOs!
• Be more organized (neater) as I sew
• Stop sewing over pins (I think I've learned my lesson)
• Be more patient
• And the biggie: STOP HOARDING FABRIC
• I will only buy fabric for what I'm currently making; not for what I'm planning to make.
• I will stop choosing fabric over food ;-)

I started going through fabric withdrawal yesterday! As I get ready to head downtown, I'm talking myself in and out of a trip to Vogue. I need to go to New Rainbow Fabric, which is across the street, for a silk organza press cloth. How can I not go to Vogue when they have this?

I think it will be the perfect replacement for the fabric I'm using now. It's brown, but I love the eyelashes. If I work on it now, I'm not breaking my resolution and I could have a snazzy version that fits now .... Problem solved! The stores are closed anyway for the holiday.

Happy New Year!

Under the Tree

Merry Christmas to all of you! I hope today is the source of treasured memories for each of you. Now for the goodies. What did Santa bring you? In addition to a minor family miracle last night, I was blessed enough to get a few sewing treats. First is fabric! After being defeated at Hancock, I took my valued 20% off everything to coupon to Jo-Ann and snagged this special occasion fabric, which was already 40% off.

I give equal praise and censure: I was pleasantly surprised when I went back to Hancock to get the patterns that were left out of my bag during the last visit. The new spring Simplicity patterns were in stock! From the new collection, I got 2257. This has happened to me before, but I end up seeing what I think are new patterns, but they aren't. I don't know how I missed these before, but I picked up 2373 and 2655. I've been looking at 2758 forever, but I didn't realize it was also a skirt pattern until recently (duh). Yep; I'm going to attempt more skirts in 2011. I talked myself out of 2451. It will be my treat when I lose weight.

There are a couple of things Santa and the elves didn't have time to get to my house, but I've been assured they are on the way: KS3380 from Fabric.com and red stretch velvet from Distinctive Fabric. I just looked out of the window and we have fresh snow for a white Christmas.

Happy Holidays!

How the Grinch Stole Christmas or $21 & Some Change

UPDATE:  Uggh!!!!! Would you believe after all that, the salesperson forgot to put the patterns in my bag?? I just called and they are still at the counter.



Hancock Fabrics, I have tried to love you. I put up with having to go to multiple locations to get my patterns because each store apparently gets only four of each in stock when the new ones come out. I make a little game out of it and think of it as the Great Pattern Hunt. I do this even when I know Jo-Ann is always well stocked and will honor your sales flier. I choose you for my Ponteroma knit, even though I could get it at Jo-Ann too (and they also have beautiful rayon knit jerseys, ITY and rib knits a you don't even bother to carry).

I like your value fabric, but don't you want to be more than that to me? Besides, Fabric.com and Fabric Mart have claimed more of my heart and wallet.  You're lucky that Discount Textile Warehouse is so inconvenient ... Let's not forget about Vogue and New Rainbow Fabric.

My point is I have options. I choose you even when I know I'll have to go to another store to get something else for the same project. That's what love does.

I've wanted your Kashmir Fleece for months. (It's a good thing I can see the colors online because no store seems to have the complete collection.)  It's $20/yard, which is why I've admired it from afar. How happy was I because it's 50% off until Christmas Eve?  And, thank you Jesus, I got a 20% off entire purchase coupon from Jo-Ann (includes sale and regular items). It's beginning to look a lot like Christmas...

I went through every coat and jacket pattern trying to find the right one for this fleece. I settled on New Look 6006 in either plum or rust. I couldn't wait to get to the store last night. I looked at every possible fabric that would make a cool lining for either color. Finally, I found it in the Kaleidoscope collection.



This was a big purchase for me; it takes a lot for me to pay more than $5/yd. I just don't have the sewing skills or money right now to roll with anything more.  But it's Christmas and I'm playing low-budget Santa for myself.  *Deep breath* Okay, since I'm here, let me get my other splurge fabric, stretch velvet, for Butterick 5562 View D. It was $9.09/yd.  Whew. I have a 20% coupon, so I better make it count, right? I looked at all the sale fabric to make sure I didn't miss anything. *Deep breath*  Let me get to the cutting counter before I lose heart.

To the register we go. With some regular fleece, patterns and thread thrown in, the subtotal is $108 something. (Let me point out that the Simplicity patterns were $2 each; I usually wait until they are 5 for $1.) $108? Am I crazy? Is this really how I want to spend my money -- on something I won't sew for a year? For real, I need a cake pan now and it's only $34. I could be using this money for gas ... BUT, it's my one gift to me this Christmas and I really, really, really like it. Deals like this don't come around that often. I'm so glad I have a 20%-off-entire-purchase coupon.

The sales person told me I qualified for $25 off my next purchase. I told her I had a 20% off coupon. The other salesperson overheard and said that I couldn't combine discounts. All I want is my coupon. The first lady tried to key it in and couldn't. She was new and thought that scanning it would work. Bless her heart. The other lady came over and tried. The register was only discounting one non-sale item, thread. I ask if they can enter flat dollar-off discounts. She says no.

She apologies for the wait. She picks up the phone and starts to franticly call store managers (There are now four impatient people behind me; I am chillin'.) She gets someone on the third try. "We aren't honoring the Jo-Ann 20%-off-the-entire-purchase coupon are we?"  Well, I guess not when you phrase it like that. This is also one of the locations that refused to allow me to use Jo-Ann's coupon's on patterns even before Jo-Ann changed the language on the coupons to exclude patterns.

I very calmly said, "You have made this very easy for me. Please cancel the transaction. I'll take the $3.99 fleece, patterns and a spool of thread. Here's another coupon for the thread." My new subtotal is $20.62. Here's what I left behind:

Unseen on the counter are also pieces of my heart and customer loyalty. See, I don't think you understood what you were up against. I chose fabric over a much-needed and long-awaited trip to the Norstrom make up counter. I chose you over EA Sports Active 2. I chose you over DVDs of movies I absolutely adore like North & South and the re-mastered Pride & Prejudice. I was willing to take public transit a little bit more and eat a little less fancy for this one last fabric splurge.

Oh, you didn't know this was going to be last you see of me for awhile? One of my New Year's resolutions is to stop "collecting" fabric. I will only buy fabric if it's needed for a project I'm actually working on. Given how long it takes me to complete anything and the stash I already have, it will be a long time before you see me browsing again. I wanted my last purchase to count, kinda like the last meal you eat before starting a diet. Oh well.

When Life Gives You Lemons, Make a Muslin

I have been working on V8699 for what seems like forever.  It's a Custom Fit, so no FBA needed and it came in a 24 for my hips. This was going to be easier to tackle.

Then came the dreaded sway back alteration.  I made a 2" wedge.  The side seams were straight and the CF matched mine. The round back alteration worked like a dream. Dealing with forward shoulders on a shoulder princess was no walk in the park, but I think I got it.  All of this was done on Swedish tracing paper.

I whipped out my prized ponteroma knit and began cutting.  I made it to the sewing machine, knocked out the staystitching and basted the top together. Tried to get fancy and add clear elastic to the shoulders, but I did it wrong. No biggie.

I anxiously tried on the top this morning. Y'all know what I forgot to do? Pay attention to the placement of the front princess seams.  They were INCHES away from my apex; waaaay too close to the side seams.  Wait, I forgot about how I didn't actually complete the round back alteration.  I made the dart, but forgot to widen the back shoulder. I would have been able to save the top if it wasn't for that.

Oh well. I have a nice stash of ponteroma here and there's plenty more at Hancock. When I replace this fabric, I'll get to use less because the View B tunic is not the look for me. I knew better! I've been reading The Science of Sexy (I'll review it later) and I fully agreed that pear-shaped women should not wear long tops. But I really liked the shaped hem on the tunic. Lesson learned. I'll be making the View A top with long sleeves.

All is not lost because I'm continuing to fit my 'new' muslin. I'm happy with the front and lower back. I added a CB seam for my sway back. I've had to take even more length out.

I think I've had enough for today.

Late Inspiration

I've discovered Serendipity Studio patterns (thanks to the recent sale at Fabric.com). I wish I'd found these earlier in the year. I might have been inspired to get behind the sewing machine more for some summer clothes!  The catalyst was the Chicago weather. It cooled down to highs in the 70s and I started thinking about my fall knits.  Then, it got back up to the 90s and I was dying for something cool and cute to wear!

What's so great about Serendiptity Studio is that it has forced me to hit the quilting sections in the fabric stores. I went nowhere near any of that stuff before. For some reason, I had no problem with patterned ITY knits, but I was lost when it came to patterned wovens. So this is how you get those cute summer dresses and skirts :-)

The Stella Strip skirt is so interesting. I was worried about cutting all of those strips. Now I know what a jelly roll is. Why are the quilting fabric bundles named for cake and pastries?

Aren't the patterns cute? I'm ready for summer skirts! Too bad it's Labor Day weekend, but I'm early for next year. (Trying to be positive.)

I think these are my favorites:

Now, you can't look at patterns like those and not buy any fabric, right? I'm new to mixing patterns, so I hope this works.  It took a consultation at Jo-Ann to figure this out:

It's for the Emaline skirt. The check is for the tie and a hem border. I had to have a top to match. What do you think about KS2856? (This top has been discontinued. As of right now, there are two left at Fabric.com.)

View B with this pink jersey:

With such a bold print, I thought I needed a more dramatic top to make this an outfit and not just a skirt and a random top. Hancock Fabrics comes through again with a $2.95 value fabric! By the way, both the floral and the check were $3.00/yd.  The lining was $1.79/yd. Just looking at the fabric makes we want a glass of lemonade! Working on this in February might chase away the winter blues. If the patterns arrive today, I might start working on the skirt now!