Saturday, September 8, 2012

The Perfect T-Shirt Round 2

I'm making progress. When tissue fitting my right side, here's what I came up with regarding the armhole:
  • Back needs 1 1/4" removed
  • Front needs 3 1/4" removed
I had a stroke of brilliance when I realized that because I needed at least 1 1/4" removed from the front and back, I could take an even horizontal tuck using the petite lines provided in the pattern. I know this may have been obvious to you seasoned stitchers, but at this stage I'm counting every victory.

After the tuck, the back armhole looked great. Bonus -- the armhole is no longer too low. I tried to dart the excess in the front, but the pins from the tuck had me thinking I probably shouldn't try to do both at once. So, I cut *gasp* and taped the tuck first. (Even though I trace my patterns, cutting makes me pause. It's so final.) I trued the seam line.

What has me scratching my head now is truing the armhole with the needed 2" dart pinned. It just doesn't look right on the tissue. Seems to fit okay. I'm using the small shoulder length minus almost 1/4"  

Wondering how to account for all of these alterations with the sleeve. Actually for the sleeve, I know I need to take the same 1 1/4" horizontal tuck I took in the front and back armhole, but I will also have compensate for the additional reshaping of the the front armhole and the new shoulder seam length, right? I'll guess cross that bridge when I come to it.

It's so helpful to figure things out step by step. Now that the beloved Red Bull Flutag has been cancelled :-( I can keep working through the afternoon. (But first I need a nap.)

I promise that when I get this right, I'm making one out of silk jersey and one out of wool jersey! Now, that just might be in 2013, but I'll still be ecstatic.

My next step is to trace the altered pattern onto Swedish tracing paper (I feel I've ripped the tissue one time too many.) I'll tissue fit the newly-traced pattern.  Just remembered I haven't added the 3" I need for my bubble butt. Uggh.  

Friday, September 7, 2012

Getting Ready for the Armhole

I've been fitting my left side (my right high hip throws me). I need a 1/2" dart in the back and a 7/8" dart in the front armhole. My right breast is a cup size larger than my left, so before I do anything official, I'll re-pin the tissue and check just the armhole on the right.

I've been searching the web for tutorials to fix the gaping.  Faye and Lynn left me great comments on the previous post. These links help me understand their suggestions.

Monday, September 3, 2012

The Perfect T-Shirt Round 1

I did my first tissue fitting in the wee hours of the morning. The good news is I needed the built-in round back and generous sizing. I'm especially excited because I think tapering to an XL gives me the hip room I need. I did a 1/2" square shoulder adjustment and added a CB seam.I started working on the sway back tuck when I heard the tissue rip, so I figured that was a good time for me to get some sleep.

The bad news is the armhole gaps horribly in the front. Since I did the tissue fitting in my undies, I don't have a picture for you.  However, It's about the same as in this KS3740 muslin:

According to FPA, the cause is the girls' size. The solve is a dart. This is the dart I refuse to add (I say that early in the fitting while my resistance is high.) I think the back armhole might be fine (it was the wee hours of the morning.) The pattern does come with instructions for how to "petite" the armhole. If I shorten the front, do I have to shorten the back? What do I do the the sleeve?

Also, I think I might need some sort of an FBA (again no pic to share). Hoping I can get that accomplished with one of three no-dart methods. Gotta remember to check the length of the shoulder too. I always felt like KS3740 was about 1/4" too long. I think Pamela's Patterns comes with a shorter seam.

Probably won't get to work on this tonight.  Going to the gym and then I'm coming back home to work on a meatloaf and mashed potatoes.

Saturday, September 1, 2012

All I Want For Christmas/New Year's Resolutions

Yep. I'm thinking that far ahead.  I need to figure out two things -- a fitted T-shirt and pants. My life would be complete.

These are things I've always needed. I just feel more desperate now. The top is what I'm tackling first. I made another attempt at Kwik Sew 3740 a couple of weeks ago (I heart the cowl neck.)  It wasn't successful; I'm still trying to figure out my curves. My recent weight gain has exacerbated the issues:

  • Full bust (I've been adamantly opposed to a bust dart)
  • Relatively small waist
  • Sway back
  • Full hips
  • High & round butt

I've decided to try another brand as the basis for a TNT pattern. Enter Pamela's Patterns Perfect T-Shirt and Sewaholic Renfrew Top.

 Image of 1201 Renfrew Top

I chose these because they have some fitting solves already built in. Sewaholic Patterns are designed for pear-shaped (I now prefer teardrop) women. From Pamela's patterns:

  • Commercial Patterns:
  • Pamela's Patterns:

  • Shoulder seam sits too far back

  • A forward shoulder is built into the pattern

  • Shoulder seam extends too far

  • Shoulder seam is smaller to give a more realistic fit

  • Back neckline is not high enough, causing shirts to "fall" back

  •  A high round back is incorporated to keep the shirt where it should be

  • Armholes are too long, creating a pucker in the armhole area

  • The option to petite the shirt and armhole area to bring the armhole higher

  • Garment pulls across the bust due to a full bustline

  • Choose from two fronts - darted and undarted for a smooth finish no matter what your cup size!

  • Too much fabric in the waist area

  • Built -in "essence of waist"

  • Too tight though the hips

  • More generous in the hip area

  • Sizing never seems to be right

  • More realistic sizing

I'm starting with the Perfect T-Shirt. I'm excited not only because of the pattern, but I've found some great resources. I got these from Nancy's Notions.

                                             Top Priorities Books
Pamela's Patterns also has options for new necklines and sleeves. Londa has cowl options. I'm not above redrafting the beloved Kwik Sew collar to fit whichever pattern ends up working.
                     Captivating Cowl Top
God forbid I can't get either of the patterns to work. My third option is HotPatterns Plain and Simple Fitted T Redux (25% off this weekend). It has "a shaped center back and side seams for a feminine fit."

To keep my sanity, I'm allowing myself take a break between each muslin (if I need it.) I figure an A-line dress with bust darts, center back and waist seams will keep any frustration brought on by the top at bay :-)

Alright, I'm going back to my tracing now. Reviewers mention the Perfect T-shirt runs big, so I'm tracing the un-darted medium and small at the same time. I should have the first muslin done Monday.

Wish me luck!