Saturday, September 1, 2012

All I Want For Christmas/New Year's Resolutions

Yep. I'm thinking that far ahead.  I need to figure out two things -- a fitted T-shirt and pants. My life would be complete.

These are things I've always needed. I just feel more desperate now. The top is what I'm tackling first. I made another attempt at Kwik Sew 3740 a couple of weeks ago (I heart the cowl neck.)  It wasn't successful; I'm still trying to figure out my curves. My recent weight gain has exacerbated the issues:

  • Full bust (I've been adamantly opposed to a bust dart)
  • Relatively small waist
  • Sway back
  • Full hips
  • High & round butt

I've decided to try another brand as the basis for a TNT pattern. Enter Pamela's Patterns Perfect T-Shirt and Sewaholic Renfrew Top.

 Image of 1201 Renfrew Top

I chose these because they have some fitting solves already built in. Sewaholic Patterns are designed for pear-shaped (I now prefer teardrop) women. From Pamela's patterns:

  • Commercial Patterns:
  • Pamela's Patterns:

  • Shoulder seam sits too far back

  • A forward shoulder is built into the pattern

  • Shoulder seam extends too far

  • Shoulder seam is smaller to give a more realistic fit

  • Back neckline is not high enough, causing shirts to "fall" back

  •  A high round back is incorporated to keep the shirt where it should be

  • Armholes are too long, creating a pucker in the armhole area

  • The option to petite the shirt and armhole area to bring the armhole higher

  • Garment pulls across the bust due to a full bustline

  • Choose from two fronts - darted and undarted for a smooth finish no matter what your cup size!

  • Too much fabric in the waist area

  • Built -in "essence of waist"

  • Too tight though the hips

  • More generous in the hip area

  • Sizing never seems to be right

  • More realistic sizing

I'm starting with the Perfect T-Shirt. I'm excited not only because of the pattern, but I've found some great resources. I got these from Nancy's Notions.

                                             Top Priorities Books
Pamela's Patterns also has options for new necklines and sleeves. Londa has cowl options. I'm not above redrafting the beloved Kwik Sew collar to fit whichever pattern ends up working.
                     Captivating Cowl Top
God forbid I can't get either of the patterns to work. My third option is HotPatterns Plain and Simple Fitted T Redux (25% off this weekend). It has "a shaped center back and side seams for a feminine fit."

To keep my sanity, I'm allowing myself take a break between each muslin (if I need it.) I figure an A-line dress with bust darts, center back and waist seams will keep any frustration brought on by the top at bay :-)

Alright, I'm going back to my tracing now. Reviewers mention the Perfect T-shirt runs big, so I'm tracing the un-darted medium and small at the same time. I should have the first muslin done Monday.

Wish me luck! 

1 comment:

Faye Lewis said...

I'm certain that you will be able to work this out. You are so talented with your sewing.