Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Figuring It Out

Not much progress to report. I got a suggestion to do a bigger narrow shoulder adjustment. I suspect a high round back is the culprit too.

Did the back pattern alt this morning. For the sake of time, I'm going to curve the CB seam. Once I figure out how much to add, I will straighten the seam and add a neckline dart. I'm starting with a healthy 1/2."


Used a curve get things nice and proper.



Let's see if I get it cut and stitched up tonight.

Monday, October 20, 2014

Back It Up

Undid the broad back adjustment. I didn't think I needed it. Decided to take a 1/4" inch out of the FBA. Now the garment measures the same as me in the bust. 

I now have a knit bodice that fits snugly like it should. I think :-) I figured I should work with a fresh muslin before I got serious about the armhole dart.

                                      



                                           

What a dart it will be. Check the side out.  Wait is the bodice too tight???

                                           

Okay. So my arm is in the way. And no, my $17 pink phone case was not worth the money. However, I have discovered a big problem. What the heck is this? 

                                           

                                           

Why is the neckline standing so far away? In the two pics above, I did tug a bit to tease out all the excess fabric. The third pic from the top shows a more natural view. Either way, it's just WRONG!  Seriously, is the bodice too tight???

I did lower the neckline when I lowered the shoulder seams. In the front, I raised the neckline and shoulder seams by the same amount.

Looks like I'll be reading sewing books on the train this morning in hopes of figuring this out.

Sunday, October 19, 2014

Bustin' Out

Still working on this dress. I need to hurry up and finish it :-)That brings me to the next challenge -- the armhole. But first, let me recap what I'm happy with:
  • Shoulders -- seam placement and length. Although please tell me if my narrow shoulder adjustment was too much or too little. It's amazing how confused I get.
  • FBA and side bust dart. Crafty's Adjust the Bust really helped me get the dart placement right. It ends a whopping 5.25" away from the bust point.  
    • Sidebar: I have discovered the Butterfly Bra from Ashley Stewart. If your girls are ... let's say substantial and you have an issue with bulging under your back bra band, this is the bra for you! It's the only bra I'll consider wearing with close-fitting knits. I have two only complaints -- the amount of padding in the cup; it adds inches compared to my old bras. The second complaint is the colors. There's nothing in white or beige.

As you can see above, I needed to add a lot of length during the FBA and I wasn't quite sure how to true it with the side seam. It's still a work in progress.

I wasted time with the broad back adjustment; I didn't need it. I forgot that knits are supposed to be a bit snug. The good news is that without that adjustment, the shoulder seams match. This is a relief because I couldn't seem to draft a back shoulder dart and my gathering technique still needs a little work. I can't seem to keep the presser foot from crushing them and making them uneven.

Now we come to the next challenge: Gaping front armhole. I've read that the larger the bust, the bigger the gaping. Thanks Butterfly Bra for the extra inches. Anyhoo, here's me trying to pin out the excess. Not bad huh? 

                

The side view might be a different story, but I will chalk this up to trying to fit myself as I wear the garment.

                           

So today task is rotating that dart to the side seam. I have a couple of resources:
Wish me luck.