Tuesday, March 22, 2016

One at a Time

I am serious about a sloper. I need to figure out why (even in RTW, my shoulder seems are an inch lower than they need to be in the front. I'm intentionally moving at a snail's pace. I am making one alt at a time and then retracing the pattern. Tha way, if something goes really wrong, it's easy to go back.

I have realized (I think) that I don't have a high round back. The CB is sitting where it needs to be. Weird because I always thought I had a high round (hated the thought, but I'd finally accepted it). I guess not having a forward shoulder should have been a bigger clue.

I do have huge bubble at the back armhole, so I think that's a protruding shoulder blade. I've widened the shoulder dart 1/2" and the bubble is gone!  I can't tell yet if the dart needs to be deeper. That's my next task. It's kind of hard to tell because the back waist dart is so tall.  I'm going to fit it without the waist dart and see what happens.


Anyhoo. I might have this done by the summer LOL.  I'm so dreading the work I'll need to do on the armscye -- but there are my square and narrow shoulders first!

                                  


  

Saturday, August 29, 2015

A Tale of Two Slopers



Did you know that McCall's and Vogue each have a dress sloper? Butterick too. More strange is that there are differences among them. First is the size. B5628 goes up to a 32. The others go up to 22. M2718 has DD-cup options. V1004 goes up to D. I'll update this when the Butterick one arrives.    

In good faith, I dutifully traced a Vogue 16. At the time, it was the only one I had in a 16. Afterward, I decided to compare the instructions between Vogue and McCall. That's when I discovered McCall had a DD. I need that (maybe that plus some). I ordered the McCall.

Here's a comparison between the Vogue D cup and McCall DD cup.


I was torn. Should I trace the McCall version? (I don't enjoy FBAs.) Anyhoo. I decided to stick with McCall. Here's what made the difference. Not sure if you can see these details clearly above, but, as far as the bodice goes, I like what Vogue has going on.
  • Consistent seam allowances:  2" for the side seams and 1" at the shoulder
  • Bustline marked all the way across the front
In the bodice, McCall makes allowances for adjustments I don't think I'll need. Things might be different when I get the courage to tackle the skirt. Now, I need the bodice in a way that isn't to daunting. Decision made, I pinned up my Vogue 16.

 

Alas, I need a size 18. CF and CB are not where the need to be. My upper bust measurement is not quite 40" yet. I'd always heard that you should go with the smaller size if you are between sizes. not the case for me.

Yeah, I could be upset about needing a larger size, but that what this process is about. I'm more upset that I have to trace another pattern. Of course, I have a McCall 18, but not a Vogue. It's on order, along with some 1/4" gingham. 


Saturday, May 23, 2015

Let the Weekend Sewing Begin!

Thank God for a long weekend. I need to de-stress!  That means that with the exception of church and any errands I run afterward, I plan to be a hermit for three straight days.

So what's on the agenda? As usual, sewing and cleaning. I need to work on the next muslin for HP1133 and I want a quick project. The quick project was going to be a top, but on second thought ...

Anyhoo.  Here's the latest HP1133 muslin.  This is my second-ever neckband and boy, do I need practice. I've been doing some research on Craftsy. I will sew it in flat next time.

Alterations thus far include raising the neckline at CB 5/8" and getting the shoulder seams in the right place. I had to raise the front shoulder seam and lower the back shoulder seam 1"

I guess I need some armhole and sleeve shaping. The great thing about HotPatterns is that Trudy hosts a group on Facebook for pattern help and advice.

This is the right side, where Big Sis lives. Sorry about the blurry image.



From the left, with Little Sis. Am I the only person with different sized girls? I feel like my bras are too small for one and too big for the other. (I'll deal with the pool of fabric over my rear later. I'm working my way down the garment.)