Saturday, August 29, 2015

A Tale of Two Slopers

Did you know that McCall's and Vogue each have a dress sloper? Butterick too. More strange is that there are differences among them. First is the size. B5628 goes up to a 32. The others go up to 22. M2718 has DD-cup options. V1004 goes up to D. I'll update this when the Butterick one arrives.    

In good faith, I dutifully traced a Vogue 16. At the time, it was the only one I had in a 16. Afterward, I decided to compare the instructions between Vogue and McCall. That's when I discovered McCall had a DD. I need that (maybe that plus some). I ordered the McCall.

Here's a comparison between the Vogue D cup and McCall DD cup.

I was torn. Should I trace the McCall version? (I don't enjoy FBAs.) Anyhoo. I decided to stick with McCall. Here's what made the difference. Not sure if you can see these details clearly above, but, as far as the bodice goes, I like what Vogue has going on.
  • Consistent seam allowances:  2" for the side seams and 1" at the shoulder
  • Bustline marked all the way across the front
In the bodice, McCall makes allowances for adjustments I don't think I'll need. Things might be different when I get the courage to tackle the skirt. Now, I need the bodice in a way that isn't to daunting. Decision made, I pinned up my Vogue 16.


Alas, I need a size 18. CF and CB are not where the need to be. My upper bust measurement is not quite 40" yet. I'd always heard that you should go with the smaller size if you are between sizes. not the case for me.

Yeah, I could be upset about needing a larger size, but that what this process is about. I'm more upset that I have to trace another pattern. Of course, I have a McCall 18, but not a Vogue. It's on order, along with some 1/4" gingham. 

Saturday, May 23, 2015

Let the Weekend Sewing Begin!

Thank God for a long weekend. I need to de-stress!  That means that with the exception of church and any errands I run afterward, I plan to be a hermit for three straight days.

So what's on the agenda? As usual, sewing and cleaning. I need to work on the next muslin for HP1133 and I want a quick project. The quick project was going to be a top, but on second thought ...

Anyhoo.  Here's the latest HP1133 muslin.  This is my second-ever neckband and boy, do I need practice. I've been doing some research on Craftsy. I will sew it in flat next time.

Alterations thus far include raising the neckline at CB 5/8" and getting the shoulder seams in the right place. I had to raise the front shoulder seam and lower the back shoulder seam 1"

I guess I need some armhole and sleeve shaping. The great thing about HotPatterns is that Trudy hosts a group on Facebook for pattern help and advice.

This is the right side, where Big Sis lives. Sorry about the blurry image.

From the left, with Little Sis. Am I the only person with different sized girls? I feel like my bras are too small for one and too big for the other. (I'll deal with the pool of fabric over my rear later. I'm working my way down the garment.)

Saturday, May 9, 2015

High Hopes

Today would be so awesome if:
  • I sew the HP1133 muslin and post it on FB for comments and fitting tips
  • I figure out and make some progress on a quick-win project. Kinda thinking about V8723
V8723, Misses' Dress
It has been 80+ degrees in Chicago for two days in a row. Maxi dresses appeared like blooming flowers all over downtown. I'm trying to fight the urge to start one because I want something I can wear to client meetings. Just checked the weather and the high is 56 today, so now I'm all confused. 

I'm gonna have another cup of tea and fool around on Craftsy before making any commitments :-)