Saturday, August 29, 2015

A Tale of Two Slopers

Did you know that McCall's and Vogue each have a dress sloper? Butterick too. More strange is that there are differences among them. First is the size. B5628 goes up to a 32. The others go up to 22. M2718 has DD-cup options. V1004 goes up to D. I'll update this when the Butterick one arrives.    

In good faith, I dutifully traced a Vogue 16. At the time, it was the only one I had in a 16. Afterward, I decided to compare the instructions between Vogue and McCall. That's when I discovered McCall had a DD. I need that (maybe that plus some). I ordered the McCall.

Here's a comparison between the Vogue D cup and McCall DD cup.

I was torn. Should I trace the McCall version? (I don't enjoy FBAs.) Anyhoo. I decided to stick with McCall. Here's what made the difference. Not sure if you can see these details clearly above, but, as far as the bodice goes, I like what Vogue has going on.
  • Consistent seam allowances:  2" for the side seams and 1" at the shoulder
  • Bustline marked all the way across the front
In the bodice, McCall makes allowances for adjustments I don't think I'll need. Things might be different when I get the courage to tackle the skirt. Now, I need the bodice in a way that isn't to daunting. Decision made, I pinned up my Vogue 16.


Alas, I need a size 18. CF and CB are not where the need to be. My upper bust measurement is not quite 40" yet. I'd always heard that you should go with the smaller size if you are between sizes. not the case for me.

Yeah, I could be upset about needing a larger size, but that what this process is about. I'm more upset that I have to trace another pattern. Of course, I have a McCall 18, but not a Vogue. It's on order, along with some 1/4" gingham. 

Saturday, May 23, 2015

Let the Weekend Sewing Begin!

Thank God for a long weekend. I need to de-stress!  That means that with the exception of church and any errands I run afterward, I plan to be a hermit for three straight days.

So what's on the agenda? As usual, sewing and cleaning. I need to work on the next muslin for HP1133 and I want a quick project. The quick project was going to be a top, but on second thought ...

Anyhoo.  Here's the latest HP1133 muslin.  This is my second-ever neckband and boy, do I need practice. I've been doing some research on Craftsy. I will sew it in flat next time.

Alterations thus far include raising the neckline at CB 5/8" and getting the shoulder seams in the right place. I had to raise the front shoulder seam and lower the back shoulder seam 1"

I guess I need some armhole and sleeve shaping. The great thing about HotPatterns is that Trudy hosts a group on Facebook for pattern help and advice.

This is the right side, where Big Sis lives. Sorry about the blurry image.

From the left, with Little Sis. Am I the only person with different sized girls? I feel like my bras are too small for one and too big for the other. (I'll deal with the pool of fabric over my rear later. I'm working my way down the garment.)

Saturday, May 9, 2015

High Hopes

Today would be so awesome if:
  • I sew the HP1133 muslin and post it on FB for comments and fitting tips
  • I figure out and make some progress on a quick-win project. Kinda thinking about V8723
V8723, Misses' Dress
It has been 80+ degrees in Chicago for two days in a row. Maxi dresses appeared like blooming flowers all over downtown. I'm trying to fight the urge to start one because I want something I can wear to client meetings. Just checked the weather and the high is 56 today, so now I'm all confused. 

I'm gonna have another cup of tea and fool around on Craftsy before making any commitments :-)

Wednesday, May 6, 2015

Pieces and Parts

Slow progress. Everything is cut and staystitched. I just need to assemble ;-) My hope for this muslin is that I finally got the shoulder seams in the right place and neckline in order. Then, I can move on to bust this weekend.

I did put a good tip into practice -- sewing with paper to keep the fabric from shifting. Worked like a dream. I know folks cut bias project out on paper, I wonder if that would help with knits too. My only concern is cutting through paper with my good scissors.

Saturday, May 2, 2015

Love and Hate

I am on my fourth round of changes and third muslin for HP1133. As frustrating as it is to go through the fitting process, I enjoy this necessary evil. I like the detective work involved with diagnosing the issue and the finding a solution. I love making alterations to the paper pattern.

What I don't like is layout, cutting and especially marking. If I had a more sophisticated sewing space with a real cutting table, I MIGHT like it more.  I've done the best I can to outfit my dining table, but it still feels makeshift and uninspiring.  So much so that I will always take a nap before I cut fabric!  How sad is that? No matter how good the tea, Netflix or sewing videos, I can't charge right into cutting. If I'm working with a jersey, forget it. I think it's because no matter how hard I try to prevent it, one of the layers shifts during the process.

Once I get into my sewing room, life at the sewing machine is okay. I love choosing the right presser foot, but I'm not as proficient as I'd like to be at running the machine. I know I'll get better with time.

What I love, love, love is pressing! Other than hoarding fabric and patterns, it's the best part of sewing. I am such a geek about all of the tools. I get so excited when I watch the power of steam.

All of of this leads to euphoria until I try the muslin on and realize there's more work to do. Then it's time for a second nap!

Well,  I've procrastinated enough. Time to start cutting.

Sunday, April 19, 2015

Late for Saturday Morning Roll Call

Well hello! Long time no blog. This is a quick post 'cause I gotta get to church. On my cutting table right now is HotPatterns 1133.

I'll be praying for divine fitting intervention. Check out the back and shoulders.  I already added 3/8" at the CB to raise the neckline. Do I need more?

Looks like my shoulder seam is at least 1" too far forward. (Are the girls pulling the seam forward or do I have weird shoulders?) Do I raise the entire front seam 1" and lower the back seam 1"?  Do I need a narrow shoulder adjustment?