Monday, June 6, 2016

The Surgery Continues

I am so excited about this weekend's progress on my bodice sloper!! Like really excited because I walked away after getting so frustrated with the back alterations.

It's amazing how much time I spent fiddling with the shoulder. My shoulder seams pitch forward about an inch below the top of my shoulder -- the entire seam. I also had a bubble at the back armhole. I wanted to work from the top down. I lost a lot of time fooling with a high round back alt I ended up not using.  I think I may have prominent shoulder blades, but I'm still not sure.

In the month-long hiatus, I toyed with starting another project. I kept reminding myself that I would get stuck at the same place as the sloper. I read. I scoured Craftsy. I revisited Pinterest and YouTube.

Finally, I had the courage to start again on Saturday. Time to tackle the front. At some point, when I taped something wrong three times in a row, I had to laugh. Anyhoo.

Here's what I've done

  • Altered shoulder dart
    • Width
      • Added 1/2" width
      • Dart is now 1 1/8" wide
    • Length
      • Added 1/2"
      • Dart is now 4 1/8" long -- is a shoulder dart supposed to be this long?
  • 1/4" square shoulder adjustment
  • 3/4" Narrow shoulder adjustment
  • 1/4" square shoulder adjustment 
  • Redrew armscye to narrow armhole around bust
  • Drew new bust point based on folded armhole dart
  • Added 1/2" armhole dart and rotated it to waist dart
  • Moved to waist dart to align with new bust point

In the past, I did an FBA only to find I still needed the armhole dart. I was trying to stick with starting at the top and working my way down, so I did the armhole dart first.

But wait there's more -- to do that is. The CF is 2 1/2" away from my center front. I also need more width at the side seams. I know the FBA will help. 

Are waist darts really supposed to be 1" from the bust? If so, mine needs to be lowered 1/4." I think I want it 2 1/4" lower, but we'll see. I'm not sure what's appropriate for a sloper vs a fashion pattern. 

I haven't tried this on with elastic around my waist, but I think it's a bit short. 

I really want this finished by the end of the month!! However, I have some house cleaning out and up to do; none of which happened this weekend!

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