Sunday, May 1, 2011

Shouldering the Burden

I made square shoulder adjustments to the muslin today. Y'all, some stuff is just hard without a sewing buddy. And unfortunately, Ruby and I are not twins in the shoulder and chest areas. The shoulders on the muslin are better, but now the "darts" I have above the girls are even more noticeable. Here is my list of potential suspects, listed in order of likelihood. Fitting & Pattern Alteration (2010) makes me like the people who use WebMD to incorrectly self-diagnose all types of illnesses:
  • High bust position --  distance from shoulder to bust is shorter and longer from waist to bust
    • dart shaping lies below the bust contour
    • fabric is tight across the bust and loose below the dart
    • bodice front bust dart needs to be raised to accomodate the bust contour 
  • Shorter shoulder joint -- the body is shorter between the shoulder and arm hinge than average
    • bodice too long between shoulder and arm hinge 
    • bodice armhole drops too far below the arm hinge, hindering arm movement 
    • dart shaping is below the crown of the bust
    • loose folds may form at the waist, the armhole, chest and upper back need less fabric length
  • Prominent bust -- measurements at bust level are longer, wider and deeper than average; the breast forms a lifted conical shape
    • fabric is tight across the bust
    • horizontal wrinkles form between the bust
    • diagonal wrinkles radiate from the bust to the garment edges
    • waistline and/or hemline rise across the center front
    • bodice needs more length, width and larger dart
So, what do you think the culprit is? Please keep in mind that this pattern has no dart. I also think I could stand a 1/4" narrow shoulder adjustment. Speaking of shoulders, do you think I have forward shoulders?

I have my instructions for the next set of changes. (Seriously, if you have any type of fitting issue, I highly suggest Perfect Sew and Fit. Post a picture; they diagnose the problem and provide solutions.) Eventually, I will have to cut two more muslins. I just have to think long and hard about my next sacrificial fabric. Pouring over the swatches from the stash with a glass of wine might take the edge off. The problem is that the ITY "muslin" I bought from Hancock's value section is cute enough to be a real garment ... Rescue me

I have had a busy day, including a trip to the office. I'm going to wind down now. Peace, love and soul!


Faye Lewis said...

I'll have to check out the Perfect Sew and Fit site, looks very interesting.

I am no fit expert, but I think if you adjust your pattern exactly where those darts appear on your muslin (darting the pattern and then cutting) I think it would solve that problem.

I do not think you have forward shoulders. You look perfectly in line.

Anonymous said...

Yes, I do think you have slightly forward shoulders. And with the gaping fabric at the front chest, I think you may need to pinch that amount out of your pattern piece, unless Patricia has another way of dealing with it.
I'm way behind with fitting my jacket (on PF&S). I wish I could be more motivated. Somehow cold weather and no fitting/sewing buddy makes everything seem so much harder.

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

I think you mayhave a slight forward shoulder. It is also obvious that you need to add abust dart. The easiest way would be to pinch out a dart and then to trasnfer thhe dart to the side seam. If you have PP it tells exactly howtaht is done.

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