New Experiences

Well, I finally finished a project. Not quite a first, but it's been so long it feels new :-) Behold S2614! Please forgive Ruby's indecency. I don't want to flatten those cups by storing them. Besides, Ruby needs a little more heft all over to better match me. *sigh*

Anyhoo. Let's get to the review, shall we?

Pattern description

Misses' pullover top and bias skirt. Separate patterns included for A, B, C, D cup sizes. Threads Magazine Collection. I made the skirt, View A.

Pattern sizing

6-22. Let's just say I started with the 22 :-)

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing?

Absolutely, except I added length.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Sure. I made the casing differently using this method. Although the instructions didn't call for it, I let the skirt hang before hemming in order to let the bias settle.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

No dislikes! This is a great starter pattern. 

Fabric used

Cotton/poly blend from Hancock. I've had it since 2005! Bemberg rayon from Mood for the lining. I starched the lining fabric before cutting.

Pattern alterations or any design changes?

Plenty! Where to begin? 

Alterations -- I made separate front and back pattern pieces for asymmetrical me.

• Added width to waist and hips. I think I'll decrease the back waist width 1" next time.
• Raised CB waist an inch. Thinking about lowering the CF waist an inch.
• Added 2 3/4" to CB hem
• I did High hip alt using the seam method. I should probably add more.

Design Changes

• Lengthened 5"
• Added a lining with hem lace! I can't help it -- I like linings. 

This project was my first ever lining! I used this tutorial to figure out how to add a linking to a skirt with an elastic waist. I used French seams for the side seams. (I didn't finish the side seams on the skirt since it's cut on the bias. Time will tell if this was wise.) Man, I ironed it, tried it on and then put it on Ruby for pics. I can see this garment will always require an iron.

I love the hem lace. It's a pretty, flirty touch to a rather utilitarian skirt. I figured I'd keep the color simple for this go round. When I got to the end, I realized I hadn't given any thought to what to do with the ends of the lace. I ended up overlapping them and joining them with a zigzag, the same way you join elastic. 

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it?

Absolutely to both!

Conclusion?

Although it took me forever (no fault of the pattern), this was a fun project. My inner gadget girl got her workout in because I used a gang of presser feet:

• standard foot
• 1/4" foot (French seams in lining)
• zipper foot (casing)
• narrow edge foot (hemming) 
• join and fold foot (attaching the hem lace) -- this was my first time using this foot. It was a little tricky with the slippery lining.

 

Almost ...

Yippie! I'm almost done with the world's longest A-line skirt project. Now I just have to wait for the bias to settle. It may or may not get hemmed soon.

No, it's not a high-low hemline. That's about what I need to make the back hemline even with the front, LOL! I love this little ribbon loop Carolyn put in the back of her skirt. Because of the added length in the back of my skirts, I don't need anything to tell back from front.

Now that I see the skirt hanging, I'm starting to understand the power of how different fabrics behave. The lining, my lovely Bemberg rayon from Mood, was cut 1 3/4" shorter than the cotton fashion fabric. The cotton is definitely heavier and has less drape. There seems to be less than 1 3/4" between the edges now. Maybe I shouldn't have steamed the skirt before hanging? Or, I stiffened the lining with starch before cutting. The last steaming seems to have removed the starch, could that be the cause?

Speaking of steam, see that diagonal streak going across the top of my skirt? My iron has taken to spitting more and more these days. *sigh*

Well, no time to rest. I want to get started on a maxi dress!

Almost forgot! So I am kinda new to the world of wovens and the required seam finishes. I did French seams on the lining, but the fashion fabric has 5/8" unfinished seams. They are unsightly only when I look at them :-) I've heard two theories: fabric cut on the bias doesn't fray. If you line, you don't always have to finish the seams of the fashion fabric because the lining protects them from wear. What say you?

Biased Coverage

Yep. I am STILL working on this Simplicity bias skirt. I could have finished a few by now, if I would get out of my own way. I had to start over on the pattern alts. I winged raising the back waist and high hip alts. I have since learned that winging it ain't so great. I will not scare you with the picture of how bad the fit was at the back waist. However, it's now all good using the seam method.

Really proud of this high hip alt

Then there's my obsession to add lining to this skirt...The lining and my decision to use French seams late at night comprised my next oops. This is my first time using Bemberg rayon (thanks Mood!) It is not to be toyed with. Between some very suspect cutting, sewing the first seam of the the French seam on the orginal 5/8" stitching line, ripping it out and finally finishing the French seams Lord knows what seam allowances, my lining was bigger than my skirt.

For the life of me, I can figure out why it's so short!

The dashed line is supposed to be the cutting line!

I was going to cut new lining, but cheap me said hell-to-the-naw. I went to bed around 2:30 a.m. after deciding to cut the seams out of the current lining and seeing what happens. It will obviously be shorter than a traditional lining, but I do not care.

To help me help myself, I added seam lines for French seams to the lining side of the pattern pieces. I'm kinda proud of that idea. I had already marked a shorter hemline on the pattern piece to accommodate 3/4" hem lace. My brilliance is so spotty.

Seam line for French seams in red

I am also watching Craftsy's Sewing on the Bias with intense interest. Click here for a 50% off coupon from Sandra Betzina's site. I don't know when the coupon will expire.

*Sigh* All I really wanted was  two skirts, two simple tops and perhaps a maxi dress or two by July. Things have certainly not gone to plan. I broke down on Friday and headed to Nordstrom. I purchased two dresses, which were extremely reasonable at $70 each. Alterations totaled $142. That's just so wrong. This is why I am learning to sew.

More Adventures in Skirt Making

I tried on the skirt with basted side seams. I can live with what I saw. I don't think the fit is bad, it's just that my body is really asymmetrical. I have a high hip on the right and a left hip that's so curvy in comparison, it may actually be a saddlebag. This has not dampened my spirits because I need some skirts!

Here's my fix to the back waist.

In my very brief sewing experience, I've decided I'd rather not thread elastic through a casing, if I can help it.  I remembered that when I made a Kwik sew denim skirt before, I didn't have to. I dug the pattern out and tried to find an online tutorial to share with you. Deepika has written about the technique here. 

I added Nancy Zieman's technique of zigzagging the ends of the elastic to a piece of fabric. 

Lemme tell you where I went so wrong. Asymmetrical me requires separate front and back pieces, right? Cut them right side up on the right side of single-layer fabric. I did the same for the lining. This just ain't fair. I can't say I didn't know. I can say I didn't understand. It's the first thing Susan Khalje covers in the lining section of The Couture Dress. Now I get it -- clearly and painfully. Mirror image means flip something.

Can I tell y'all how glad I am that this skirt is poly-cotton twill from Fabric.com and pongee lining? I think I'd pass out if this attempt used more expensive fabric.

Adventures in Skirt Making Continue

On Sunday, I decided to tackle the easier of the patterns, S2614.  I made the changes to the pattern and didn't make another muslin. I think I may have added too much width for the high hip, but I figured I could pin-fit that out.

Monday morning, I cut and marked. Tuesday, I staystitched and got ready to construct! I pinned my two pieces together. Guess what? When I added 1" to the back waist. I really added an inch -- without tapering from the left seam line. Thank goodness this is an easy fix. You can see below how I'm trying to accomplish this taper.

I only had 20 minutes. I'll fix it later. I also want to revisit how to do an elastic casing without threading the elastic through. Is that called a fold over casing?

Double Trouble

I need bottoms desperately (really I just need clothes.) I can suffer through RTW tops, but that is not the case with pants. Skirts can be an issue too, but more about that later. In the meantime, I've become obsessed with skirts. I even bought a book to help me figure out how to line an A-line skirt.

I was ready to conquer V8882 with gusto:  I traced the pattern. I added 1" to the side seam allowances and my usual 2.75" length to the CB for my high and round rear. (This is why RTW skirts can be scary.) Side note:  what I have been calling a sway back issue may actually be my high and round rump. Not sure yet if it's just my rear or if I really have a sway back.

I moved on to the muslin. I now see my tilted waist in action! I raised the back 1" and lowered the front 1" (people, I'm on a roll!) By pinning, I was able to fix the hemline curve.  I still needed the 2.75" at the CB, I just can't seem to draw the curve correctly on paper. I draw half the curve, fold the pattern in half and then trace it on the other side.

Not a great shot

I was ready to cut some fabric. Dang! The piece I wanted to use was too short. My alts required an extra 3/4 yard. See how the Lord helps fools and babies? I was completely willing to ignore the pulling around my high hip and what the pleat was doing as it opened over the ummm ... apex of my bum. Also, that 2.25" waistband looked like it was sitting directly under the girls. I definitely had an old man in Florida look.

The desire for a quick win was so great, I decided to move on to an easier bias skirt with an elastic waist (that didn't need as much fabric.) Enter S2614. How the hell do you line a skirt with an elastic waist? (Lining is a requirement for me.) Thank God for Google.

In my brilliance, I did the tissue alts in the following order: Overall length, CB hem length, hips, high hip, back waist (notice how I forgot the front waist?) The high hip alt was torturous. I tried to use the seam method. Completely severed the tissue on both the front and back. Still wasn't sure if I really got the alt right, but I moved on to the muslin.    

Yep. Still needed to lower the front waist. Here is where I am amazingly awesome. I still don't know why, but although I marked the new waistline on the muslin, I chose to use a curve to draw a different waistline. The CF was the same, but I angled it differently. I started with the left side. I couldn't quite get ruler to match up on the right side. So I cut the left side, folded the skirt in half and cut the right side based on the left! YES!! I CUT OFF THE LENGTH I ADDED FOR THE RIGHT HIGH HIP. I am greatness and excellence rolled up into one.  Luckily, I saved the piece I cut off.

My hemline curve wasn't right on this skirt either.

This weekend will be spent working on both skirts ... Of course, none of the fabric in my stash will do now ;-) I have my heart set on the Potent Purple linen from Jo-Ann. I could probably go for Calla Green as an alt. (Yes, I have a 5+ yd piece here, but that's for a dress!)



Third choice is potting soil.


I see a top in my future with this fabric.