I made square shoulder adjustments to the muslin today. Y'all, some stuff is just hard without a sewing buddy. And unfortunately, Ruby and I are not twins in the shoulder and chest areas. The shoulders on the muslin are better, but now the "darts" I have above the girls are even more noticeable. Here is my list of potential suspects, listed in order of likelihood.
Fitting & Pattern Alteration (2010) makes me like the people who use WebMD to incorrectly self-diagnose all types of illnesses:
- High bust position -- distance from shoulder to bust is shorter and longer from waist to bust
- dart shaping lies below the bust contour
- fabric is tight across the bust and loose below the dart
- bodice front bust dart needs to be raised to accomodate the bust contour
- Shorter shoulder joint -- the body is shorter between the shoulder and arm hinge than average
- bodice too long between shoulder and arm hinge
- bodice armhole drops too far below the arm hinge, hindering arm movement
- dart shaping is below the crown of the bust
- loose folds may form at the waist, the armhole, chest and upper back need less fabric length
- Prominent bust -- measurements at bust level are longer, wider and deeper than average; the breast forms a lifted conical shape
- fabric is tight across the bust
- horizontal wrinkles form between the bust
- diagonal wrinkles radiate from the bust to the garment edges
- waistline and/or hemline rise across the center front
- bodice needs more length, width and larger dart
So, what do you think the culprit is? Please keep in mind that this pattern has no dart. I also think I could stand a 1/4" narrow shoulder adjustment. Speaking of shoulders, do you think I have forward shoulders?
I have my instructions for the next set of changes. (Seriously, if you have any type of fitting issue, I highly suggest
Perfect Sew and Fit. Post a picture; they diagnose the problem and provide solutions.) Eventually, I will have to cut two more muslins. I just have to think long and hard about my next sacrificial fabric. Pouring over the swatches from the stash with a glass of wine might take the edge off. The problem is that the ITY "muslin" I bought from Hancock's value section is cute enough to be a real garment ... Rescue me Fabric.com.
I have had a busy day, including a trip to the office. I'm going to wind down now. Peace, love and soul!