Not Bad For A Muslin - Kwik Sew 3617

I finished KS3617 today and not without drama.  First, you see that blue dot on the neckband? That was where I numbered the wrong side of the pattern piece so that I wouldn't confuse things.  I used a Mark-B-Gone marker.  Then  I fused interfacing over the mark.  Now, when the collar is wet, the ink goes away.  When the fabric dries, the mark reappears.  That better come out when I wash the top tomorrow.

The second bit of drama was, and I almost came to tears, when I was hemming the sleeve.  I used my machine's free arm and I thought I had stretched the fabric out.  I don't know if I would have recovered if I had.  Thank God it worked out. 

I purchased the fabric to be a muslin.  I think that by the time I was done with the sale at Hancock, I paid around $1.00 for the fabric.  Silly me should have bought the whole bolt.  Then I'd have a more realistic muslin fabric for this ponteroma knit wardrobe. In the back of my mind, I was hoping that this muslin would be wearable.  I think it is:-)

The last quirk I have for this top is something I've done with everything I've tried to make -- I accidently cut a hole in it. Without fail, I do it every time.  I know less about mending and darning than I do sewing, so here's my best attempt at a fix.

Let's review, shall we?

Pattern Description

Misses' pull-over close fitting tops. View A has scoop neckline with wide neckband and full length sleeves.

Pattern Sizing
XS-XL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. Kwik Sew has become my favorite brand for knit tops. The patters are well-drafted and the instructions are clear.

  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the scoop neck with wide band. 

Fabric Used
Ribbed knit from Hancock's value fabrics

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made
1.  I tissue-fit the patten as subbested in Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Pattern (Sewing for Real People series)

2.  No-dart FBA as described in The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns.

3.  I added back darts.  At the time, I didn't understand how to do a sway back alteration. So I added darts using a really scientific method; I pulled out a pattern that had darts and traced them onto this pattern.

Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?
Of course. It's a good basic top.  If I can tackle this with moderate success, beginners should have no fear.

Conclusion
This top is a wardrobe staple. I look forward to it in many colors in both short and long sleeves. 

Beginners, here are the skills you'll get to practice:

• Working with knits
• Understitching
• Hemming
• Double-needle topstitching
• Fusing interfacing
• Attaching a shaped neckband 

See the work in progress here, here and here.  Thank you to those who provided advice and encouragement along the way.

Winging It -- Kwik Sew 3617

I'm making slow, but steady progress on Kwik Sew 3617.  I decided to add contour darts to help with the pool of fabric at my backside.  I kept looking for clear directions on how to do the sway back adjustment, but I couldn't find any written and illustrated so that I could understand.  I also have some serious concerns about adding a horizontal seam across the back. If anyone has pictures of how the finished technique looks, please share.  **Update:   found the technique illustrated here. Silly me thought that the seam would be visible in the garment like adding a dart**

Back to the contour darts.  I took the path of least resistance.  I went through my patterns to see which had back darts.  I decided to go with New Look 6945.  I simply traced the darts from that pattern onto the new pattern. How's that for winging it?

Here's a recap of what I've done so far:

When I trace my top patterns, I usually trace the side cutting lines for small-XL.

Then I tissue fit.

It's painfully clear why RTW never fits me! Next I add cutting and sewing lines.

Now, after some slicing and dicing (no-dart FBA).  I end up with this:

After the FBA, I elected not to redraw the cutting and stitching lines.  To make things easier, I included a 1" seam allowance when I finished the FBA.

Time for the darts.  Since I was new to this, I ended up tracing all of them (and not too neatly).

I ended up going with the one for the largest size.  I also tried to increase it.

Here we go.  Not bad. Certainly not perfect but, not bad. 

My FBAs are getting better with each attempt. I just wish I could get the armhole shaping right. Anyhoo, Got my neckilnes ready for later use.

I'm hoping this will turn out well.

Resources

• 
  
  Tissue fitting:  Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Pattern (Sewing for Real People series)
  
  
  
• 
  
  No-dart FBA:  The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns
  
  
  
• 
  
  Contour darts:  New Complete Guide to Sewing (Readers Digest)
  
  
  

Are Darts My Friends?

I made a very rough muslin of Kwik Sew 3617 tonight.  I think the front of the top is fine.  I was very proud of my no-dart FBA.  I also did a nice job of tissue fitting.

When I looked at the back view -- uggh.  It's very similar to this:

Are darts the answer for fixing that pool of fabric?  I've piled all of my reference books and all my shirt patterns with back darts in the bed for some late-night reading.  In the meantime, please let me know if I'm on the right track.  Back darts in a knit top seem odd to me, but that's the only way I can imagine a fitted shirt fitting me. Since I plan on wearing the shirt out and not tucked in, I need to explore every option.