Seeing is Believing

Dare I say that I might actually *gasp* finish a project, but *double gasp* finish it on time? It's a relatively simple top, but I was getting stuck where I usually get stuck -- sway back and my curvy rear. I even tried this wonderful resource, but I just couldn't get it.

Here's why:

My back looks kinda curvy! I had to add a CB seam and pin fit it to death.  To get here took me two muslins and at least five attempts on paper. Without a waist seam, I think this is the best I can do for a fitted top. It's not perfect, but it's the best fitting back I've ever had.

Question -- should I give up all hope of seamless backs?

The shoulder seam needs work, but I'll live with it. I did a 1/2" square shoulder adjustment. Could I possibly need more? The hemline was trial and error. Looks like I need to add 1/4" at the CB seam and true it.  People talk about tops pulling backward, but mine pull forward and the front neckline always seems too big...

Anyhoo. I may just pull this off in time for New Year's Eve! I'm supposed to be working on this SWAP, but now that I think I've semi-solved my backside issue, knit tops and dresses keep popping into my head.

Dangerous Curves

Okay. I'm still working on the sway back adjustment for NL6432. I traced my back curve onto the garment. Yep, used a Sharpie. (Focus on the dominant line.)

After trying it on, I saw that I needed a straight seam from the end of my back instead of trying to sew a curve to fit my entire backside.

The concave portion of the curve matched my back perfectly. However, look at what happens above (and below) my waist!  My dress form still needs work, but that's a close approximation of what's happening on me.  I guess the good news is that I don't have the pooling at my waist ...

Okay curvy ladies. How do I sew a CB seam to work with what I've got going on?  Should I go back to the paper pattern and start over? Ugghh...

A Quick Note on Curves

I spent four+ hours fitting the coat yesterday.  They were a leisurely four hours, but I could have been putting up my Christmas tree with that time. I realized that the sway back adjustment I made to the pattern was no where close to being right. So I spent hours pinning and re-pining the garment on me to try and fix it.  I used my dress form to pin the side seams. Finally, I basted the new stitching lines and ... it was a total disaster. The side seams were fine but the center back wasn't even close.

Here's one of the pinning attempts. Now that I look at it, I probably should have stitched this one.

Then I had a late stroke of brilliance - use a flexible curve to get the shape of my back. By this time I was tired and frustrated so I did an initial tracing of the curve and drowned my sorrows in DVDs for the rest of the evening.

Here's what I got this morning:

I'm now adjusting the padding on Ruby so that she matches perfectly. I'm thinking that while I'm at it, I should probably add my forward shoulders to the dress form too.

So, no I still don't have a completed project, but I'm moving further in understanding sway back, which is really what's driving my desire to sew. I wish I would have thought of using a flexible curve when I padded my dress form last year.  I've decided I want a flexible ruler. The curve is nice, but I want the ruler markings.

Well, time to get ready for church. I was a member of Bedside Baptist last Sunday, so I need to get it gear this morning!

When Life Gives You Lemons, Make a Muslin

I have been working on V8699 for what seems like forever.  It's a Custom Fit, so no FBA needed and it came in a 24 for my hips. This was going to be easier to tackle.

Then came the dreaded sway back alteration.  I made a 2" wedge.  The side seams were straight and the CF matched mine. The round back alteration worked like a dream. Dealing with forward shoulders on a shoulder princess was no walk in the park, but I think I got it.  All of this was done on Swedish tracing paper.

I whipped out my prized ponteroma knit and began cutting.  I made it to the sewing machine, knocked out the staystitching and basted the top together. Tried to get fancy and add clear elastic to the shoulders, but I did it wrong. No biggie.

I anxiously tried on the top this morning. Y'all know what I forgot to do? Pay attention to the placement of the front princess seams.  They were INCHES away from my apex; waaaay too close to the side seams.  Wait, I forgot about how I didn't actually complete the round back alteration.  I made the dart, but forgot to widen the back shoulder. I would have been able to save the top if it wasn't for that.

Oh well. I have a nice stash of ponteroma here and there's plenty more at Hancock. When I replace this fabric, I'll get to use less because the View B tunic is not the look for me. I knew better! I've been reading The Science of Sexy (I'll review it later) and I fully agreed that pear-shaped women should not wear long tops. But I really liked the shaped hem on the tunic. Lesson learned. I'll be making the View A top with long sleeves.

All is not lost because I'm continuing to fit my 'new' muslin. I'm happy with the front and lower back. I added a CB seam for my sway back. I've had to take even more length out.

I think I've had enough for today.

Save My Shirt & My Sanity

This is the next installment of posts where I give a desperate cry for help! This is for KS3740. It's a knit top with no center back seam.

Issue #1:  Do I have a round back? I know you can't see me, but the pattern falls away from my neck. I do have rounded shoulders. There's also a gap at the back armhole.

























I know this is gonna sound crazy, but could my butt (ha ha) and sway back be part of the problem?  Could the curve from the top of my rear to my waist be so severe that it causes the pattern to hang differently at the neckline?  I realized my dress form needs some work because the top is much shorter on me.  Anyhoo. Can you kinda see how the top stands away from Ruby's rear? By the way, she is wearing my Burda 8629 muslin. This twill is now a muslin because I didn't realize there wasn't a nap layout. Live and learn.

Okay. Does it really take this many tucks for my sway back or am I doing something wrong?

How on earth am I going to true this (Issue #2)? Seriously. How do you suggest I true it? Do you see the new grainline in green? Next to the original, it looks like a dart! The wonky center back I'm sure contributes to the issue at the neckline, but I have that problem when I try on unaltered tissue.

The top is supposed to be close fitting. Do I have it pinned too tight?

Back to the truing. the vertical green line you see at the neckline is what hangs over the ruler when I compare the top edge of the pattern to the bottom edge. (I think I measured it right.) When I fold the pattern under along that line, the pattern sits flat against my back.

Please help.

Still Fighting

I re-traced the top I'm working on.  I'm struggling with the sway back adjustment. The great news is I have a sewing angel who is providing great tips as I muddle my way through this.  She prodded me to me to check my measurements because perhaps I needed more length in the CF.  I've taken enough measurements to adjust the top.  I decided that I may as well keep going, so I'll knock out my hips and crotch curve next. Pray for me.

The Battle Continues

The quest for clothes that fit continues!  I'm tackling my first sway back alteration in a top.  Rather than doing the wedge and tapering to the side seam, I decided to try this method.  If you use this one, you don't have to worry about straightening the hem and fixing the grain line. 

I'm working on my second Kwik Sew 3740 muslin.  The first one I put aside when I realized I'd cut the collar and the top of the bodice too large. I decided to make things easy and simple and just start over; I'd already done an FBA and I didn't want to get confused.

This is definitely an iterative process.  No pics until I get the pattern adjusted properly. I started with taking out 7/8".  For this next round, I think I used the right waistline marking on the pattern and I've taken out 1 1/2".  I can't wait to get into my cowl neck ponteroma knit top!

On a separate note, I thought I'd be getting my new sewing machine this weekend.  Looks like I'll be putting that off for another month.  I decided to stop working on Kwik Sew 3221 until I have more technology to help me with the slippery sheer I am using. Also, I was a little disappointed after I tried it on. I thought it would look great with this top; I didn't like the way it looked over the long sleeves. 

It was completely God's grace that got the design centered! I gave that absolutely no thought when laying out the pattern.  I've realized that not only did I have problems sewing the fabric, but I butchered it while cutting too.  If you see this value fabric at Hancock, please give me a shout! I need two yards.

Not Bad For A Muslin - Kwik Sew 3617

I finished KS3617 today and not without drama.  First, you see that blue dot on the neckband? That was where I numbered the wrong side of the pattern piece so that I wouldn't confuse things.  I used a Mark-B-Gone marker.  Then  I fused interfacing over the mark.  Now, when the collar is wet, the ink goes away.  When the fabric dries, the mark reappears.  That better come out when I wash the top tomorrow.

The second bit of drama was, and I almost came to tears, when I was hemming the sleeve.  I used my machine's free arm and I thought I had stretched the fabric out.  I don't know if I would have recovered if I had.  Thank God it worked out. 

I purchased the fabric to be a muslin.  I think that by the time I was done with the sale at Hancock, I paid around $1.00 for the fabric.  Silly me should have bought the whole bolt.  Then I'd have a more realistic muslin fabric for this ponteroma knit wardrobe. In the back of my mind, I was hoping that this muslin would be wearable.  I think it is:-)

The last quirk I have for this top is something I've done with everything I've tried to make -- I accidently cut a hole in it. Without fail, I do it every time.  I know less about mending and darning than I do sewing, so here's my best attempt at a fix.

Let's review, shall we?

Pattern Description

Misses' pull-over close fitting tops. View A has scoop neckline with wide neckband and full length sleeves.

Pattern Sizing
XS-XL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes

Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. Kwik Sew has become my favorite brand for knit tops. The patters are well-drafted and the instructions are clear.

  

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the scoop neck with wide band. 

Fabric Used
Ribbed knit from Hancock's value fabrics

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made
1.  I tissue-fit the patten as subbested in Fit for Real People: Sew Great Clothes Using ANY Pattern (Sewing for Real People series)

2.  No-dart FBA as described in The Perfect Fit: The Classic Guide to Altering Patterns.

3.  I added back darts.  At the time, I didn't understand how to do a sway back alteration. So I added darts using a really scientific method; I pulled out a pattern that had darts and traced them onto this pattern.

Would you sew it again?  Would you recommend it to others?
Of course. It's a good basic top.  If I can tackle this with moderate success, beginners should have no fear.

Conclusion
This top is a wardrobe staple. I look forward to it in many colors in both short and long sleeves. 

Beginners, here are the skills you'll get to practice:

• Working with knits
• Understitching
• Hemming
• Double-needle topstitching
• Fusing interfacing
• Attaching a shaped neckband 

See the work in progress here, here and here.  Thank you to those who provided advice and encouragement along the way.