Sunday, January 24, 2010

Winging It -- Kwik Sew 3617

I'm making slow, but steady progress on Kwik Sew 3617.  I decided to add contour darts to help with the pool of fabric at my backside.  I kept looking for clear directions on how to do the sway back adjustment, but I couldn't find any written and illustrated so that I could understand.  I also have some serious concerns about adding a horizontal seam across the back. If anyone has pictures of how the finished technique looks, please share.  **Update:   found the technique illustrated here. Silly me thought that the seam would be visible in the garment like adding a dart**

Back to the contour darts.  I took the path of least resistance.  I went through my patterns to see which had back darts.  I decided to go with New Look 6945.  I simply traced the darts from that pattern onto the new pattern. How's that for winging it?

Here's a recap of what I've done so far:

When I trace my top patterns, I usually trace the side cutting lines for small-XL.

Then I tissue fit.

It's painfully clear why RTW never fits me! Next I add cutting and sewing lines.

Now, after some slicing and dicing (no-dart FBA).  I end up with this:

After the FBA, I elected not to redraw the cutting and stitching lines.  To make things easier, I included a 1" seam allowance when I finished the FBA.

Time for the darts.  Since I was new to this, I ended up tracing all of them (and not too neatly).

I ended up going with the one for the largest size.  I also tried to increase it.

Here we go.  Not bad. Certainly not perfect but, not bad. 

My FBAs are getting better with each attempt. I just wish I could get the armhole shaping right. Anyhoo, Got my neckilnes ready for later use.

I'm hoping this will turn out well.



Faye Lewis said...

Sorry that I did not get back, here a post from Rusty Bobbin's blog that lists some more resources on sway back alterations for future reference.

knitmachinequeen (KMQ) said...

Thanks for the nice comments you always leave on my blog. I just signed on as a follower so that I can keep an eye on what you're doing. You are using some wonderful reference books. I know nothing about sway back adjustment but wish I could help.

NuJoi said...

Thanks, ladies. I look to you for inspiration. One day, I'll get to post about how cute something turned out without all of the SOS cries along the way:-)

NuJoi said...

Just found the swayback alteration explained and illustrated:,7695.msg125676.html#msg125676

Duh. There is no seam across the back in the finished garment. (I promise I'm an intelligent person; I'm just completely clueless when it comes to sewing.)